Broken exhaust

Driving home one night, when it sounded like my car had a flat tyre even though I knew it didn’t

Note: I drive with really loud music, so couldn’t hear anything

I knew something was wrong, because the entire car was resonating. If you have ever drove on a flat tyre, you will know what I mean when I’m talking about resonating, basically the vibrations go throughout the shell and steering wheel

 

I turned down my stereo knew something was wrong but I couldn’t figure out what. Took me about 20 secs, then I realised I either had a snapped exhaust or broken exhaust. I parked up when I got home and looked in the morning to assess the damage

Looked in the morning and it looked like the centre section had gone on the car. I don’t know the exhaust system entirely so made a post on a forum. Someone said it was a centre section / mid-box. Either way looked to be around £50. I was expecting it to be the cat (£200+), spoke to the brother and agreed to take the car into garage to price it up

Came back and the car was fixed. Turns out it was simply the exhaust clamps had snapped. So the garage repaired it for free. Talk about lucky. I was sure something had gone from it

Views – 941

BG44K Fuel System Cleaner

A while back I was lucky enough to be gifted some BG44K Fuel System Cleaner for free and just never got around to using it until tonight. I received a call from my brother asking me if I had a pump. when he said this I was thinking along the lines of a foot pump what you would inflate a bike tyre with.

When he explained it was to suck fuel through the fuel filter for his partners car, I understood what he meant. I mentioned I did have a Mityvac which was designed to pull the fuel through the lines by vacuum so he came over.

We went into my garage and got out the tools and I helped him with the work. He disconnected the hoses for the fuel filter on his partners car and we held them to one side. I asked why he didn’t pre-fill the filters like we normally do. The specific fuel filter for that car is a sealed unit. So you have to pull the fuel through the lines via vacuum

We hooked up the Mityac, luckily all parts were there. I thought I’d lost it and proceeded to draw Vacuum through the fuel lines. After pumping for around 15 secs fuel started being sucked up. We pulled enough fuel to fill the bottle and then connected the hoses. The car started first time. My brother mentioned it was a “good piece of kit”. Indeed it is and it’s all mine.

He filled up the car with the BG44K Fuel System Cleaner and after he told me I mentioned I still had mine. He emptied the entire can into my tank, I went to the garage and filled it with some Shell V-Power Diesel then took it for a blast. The car determinately sounded a lot more gutsy and seemed to pull a lot harder too.

There is a lot of stigmata surrounding power products like BG44K saying people will believe it has power when there’s none. Although there may be some truth to this, I’ve drove my car for 3 years, I know how it responds.

It’s definitely responding better than before. The fuel system cleaner was carried out on my car at 77,900 miles and given that my car was meant to have “full” service history from new from VW I wouldn’t be surprised if it developed gremlins along the way

My car had the old cleaner (BG44K) – which is suitable for Petrols & Diesels. However the company have now released a diesel specific fuel system cleaner called BG244 which does the job. The product isn’t cheap (retails for around £20) but it’s been proven to work and de-coke your engines. I may look into seafoaming at a later date but as I regularly do an Italian Tune-Up on my car it doesn’t get the chance to accumulate soots and burnt on carbon

You can read more about the BG series of products on the company website via the links below aswell as their long list of fuel cleaning products

Views – 1246

Flat Battery

Sooner or later it had to happen, my car showed all the warnings signs of a flat battery. Primarily it was weaker starting in colder temperatures, but it was also my remote key fob not working properly and slow power to winding the electric windows up. After my recent dilemma with a broken rear spring, the last thing I wanted to fork out money for was a new battery, but I knew it was eventually going to be one of those jobs.

Unfortunately. Or rather “sod’s law” I mentioned to the mother about the spring and said I’ll need a battery next as that is starting to show signs of failure….. never ever mention what’s about to go wrong with your car. The damn things are telepathic and just throw pissy fits when they want.

Well.. not really. That’s why they call it sod’s law.

Anyway, I can’t really fault the battery. Turns out it was the original battery installed in the car when it was first manufactured. My car being 10+ years old is quite good going so shows a testament to the quality of batteries used by VW. I tried using my booster pack but it was too low drained. I had no jumper cables around or anyone available to jump start my car so in the end I used my AA membership and called them out. (Hey I pay for Roadside, Relay and Home Start) so why not. Went back in the house and made another cuppa whilst I waited. When the AA were out he hooked up his Battery meter. The car was reading as 11V and 380Amps of power in the battery (batteries need 12V minimum to start) so a battery low in power. Soon as he hooked up his booster pack my car started. We let it run for 10 mins and it was showing as charging again.

The car would still start in warm temperatures but the strain was showing in the colder ones. So that same day I made sure I bought a new battery.

The one problem with diesel cars is they require big beefy batteries to cope with the extra strain on the engine. So it means you can’t just get an el-cheapo £50 battery unless you’re good friends with people in the trade.

After talking with euro car parts and discussing with halfords I managed to score a decent battery. Got it for £81.62

Now, the battery is a 74aH battery (amp hours) and 720 CCA (cold-cranking amps)

For reference to make it easier original battery is 72ah and 680CCA

  • Amp Hours – The battery “juice” how long you can run the vehicle components and electrics without the engine running before the battery goes flat (basically it’s run-time)
  • CCA – Cold Cranking Amps are how primarily used for cold starting the engine in really low temperatures. When you start your engine in low temperatures it puts extra strain on the battery and components. So a high CCA is needed for the extra “boost” that’s required

Generally speaking with car batteries, you can always go higher. As long as it will still fit in the engine bay

Now.. everything is hunky dory with my car at least, another few years of happy motoring aside from the usual services. I’ve kept the original battery as it would still do as a good spare for a Petrol Vehicle or generally testing with. Always remember to buy a decent battery

Views – 973

Broken rear spring

Through the joys of wear & tear and British weather, about to drive to work when my rear spring failed on the car. Luckily, I was just driving off the kerb about to head to work when I heard a loud bang. Immediately reversed back onto the kerb because I knew what that sound was.

Looked on the path and spotted little bits of metal, looked at the arch and it had greatly dropped so knew the spring was gone. I looked under the car with my torch and could see the beam sitting on the spring although didn’t look like it had snapped.

I called my brother and in between him coming over to look I fished about under where the spring sits and found the other part of it… Yep, definately broke!

spring-beam

Hmmm, maybe not too bad

snapped-spring

Nope, I was wrong!

Now, that I knew the spring was broken, there was definately no way of me being able to get into work at 10pm on a Thursday night. So I just called in and said I wasn’t coming in. Pointless trying really and no way was I driving my car.

I decided to have an early night and get up early. I went to Durham and purchased 2 new springs from Eurocarparts (made by Anschler for around £30 each). Have to buy them in pairs otherwise the extra load effects the opposite side and eventually breaks it. The springs will be replaced and a write it will be added to the main site. Fingers crossed this is the last wear and tear part I have to replace for a while

Views – 1047

Mitsubishi Evo

The day finally came when I could use my drivers day card that my brother and his partner and their family bought for me as a Christmas present. Needless to say I woke up thinking it was Christmas I couldn’t get the day out of my head and was bouncing with excitement knowing I was going to go drive my dream car a Mitsubishi Evo

For those who don’t know a Mitsubishi Evo is a Japanese designed rally car which took the world by storm when Tommi Makinnen used it to won a series of consecutive world rally championships. There’s something about the raw appeal to me that makes an Evo like evil it has so much road presence

Now the choice of destination where I was going to drive my Evo was down Elvington air field and museum a good 70 miles away from where I live. After much hassle when I first called up to sort it out, I was told the Evo is a popular car and it’s only available at a few selected destinations.

I set off down there with my brother and after a quick stop off for some healthy breakfast (McDonald’s) when we got there the appeal was really dawning on me and I was so happy to be there I spot the Evo from about half a mile away it was like a magnet to me.

The event to host the driving day was done by Everyman Racing it’s recommended to get there an hour early and register this I would definitely agree with you will see why if you went the amount of people who turn up early are unreal and mine was one of the earliest timeslot. Plus it’s an open day event as well so people can just turn up and drive as long as they have their licenses I believe.

When I got there I signed the optional waiver in case I crashed the car otherwise I’d be paying 5000 in excess to cover the loss or damage of the vehicle. This excess is entirely optional. It’s your own choice if you purchase it but it’s recommended you don’t need it of you are only doing passenger rides. The earlier you get there during the day the better really as over the course of the day the vehicles will suffer from brake fade.

Now onto the event. After I went through the sign up process which takes around half an hour of waiting in a queue signing forms and paying in I was given a slip which gave a brief overview of what was paid for for my event. In my case it was 3miles as a driver in the Evo and a high speed passenger lap

The instructions say to wait at a coloured flag and listen for your name. Although when I was there I didn’t see any form of blue flag. I simply walked towards the nearest entrance gate closest to the Evo and waited admiring all the different cars

Eventually after waiting for what seemed forever my name was called. I handed my USB stick for in car recording and saving photos onto, after a short while (around 15 mins) the camera was set up and recording. I was given a brief run-down with some instructions by the examiner and drove to the start line for a photograph before going onto the main track

Once the photographs were taken I was instructed to drive up towards the airfield, once on the air field the instructor informed me where to accelerate, when to slow down, when to turn. The first time I drove around the airfield I didn’t know where I was going. The instructor said turn at the yellow cones. To be honest I think the cones weren’t really that visible in contrast to the course, and I wasn’t really familiar with the track.

The second lap around the airfield I was very familiar with the layout so I was a lot more keen when it came to driving on the course as I knew where to turn and slow down so I didn’t hesitate when driving. As you go around each lap you are instructed where the camera woman is, after the second (and final) lap waved to the camera and returned to the paddocks. The instructor then gave me my piece of paper with my score on (37/40 IIRC) and instructed me to wait again for the paddocks.

My next ride out was a passenger ride with non other than the stig… well someone dressed as him. The passenger ride was a high speed lap, when I first was given the gift I was positive it said in an Ariel Atom. When at the course I was advised the default high speed lap is in a Vauxhall Monaro VXR8. These cars aren’t exactly slouches either, but I REALLY wanted to a high speed lap in the Atom so stumped up the money for one lap (around £25). After waiting my turn for passenger ride finally came. I was given a helmet to use and as I lowered into the fibreglass bucket seats it really amazes you how low they are (loads of legroom too). The instructors connected up the harnesses which you REALLY need in them and the driver. Whom I shall call Stig took me for a lap.

Before I go further, I just want to note, the Atom I was sitting inside was the most powerful there. All the Atoms’ there were supercharged, but the one I was in was 320hp

Anyway, I we set off, I was expecting “Stig” to drive slowly up for the photograph shots. Absolutely fuck no,,, soon was I was strapped up and ready to go his foot was to the floor and wizzing through the gears. We hit 100 before we even touched the airfield (these cars have the same 0-60 acceleration as the £1,000,000 Bugatti Veyron and I have some perspective just how fast the Bugatti is now. The Atom was unreal. As the course was familiar, Stig knew all the perfect spots to turn and when to accelerate, the car never dropped below 100 when we were on the airfield, you could hear the tyres screaming for grip. The sheer air force on the helmet actually lifted the helmet upwards off my head and I had to pull it back down. I made sure I pulled it down because I couldn’t see. The lap only lasted around 30 seconds, but I couldn’t stop smiling. Way more than the Evo, safe to say the Atom was next on my wishlist for lotto cars to buy.

Whilst waiting for the Atom, I paid for Steven (brother) to go out in the VXR8 (he’s a Vauxhall nut) he came back with a smile too.

After that, we collected the photos and left the event.

Overall, the entire day cost me around £140.

I’ll be updating this post later with some pros + cons of the event and including the Youtube video of me driving the Evo.

Views – 1049

Car maintenance and breakdown products

I decided to make a post on my favourite car maintenance and breakdown products after recently going through a thought process over everything I’ve bought over the years. I’m going to constantly add to this post products which I’ve personally found extremely useful and recommend on the car. Or ones which I’ll fit to my car and then review at a later date

Products posted here are affiliate links, however I’m posting them because I personally use the products and recommend them. There are cheaper products that can be found online, but because I haven’t used them personally I will not recommend them. However, you are more entitled to purchase them at your own decision if you need to save money or if money is a bit tight for you. This is more of a general guide to help others find useful things for their cars.

FLUIDS

Oil, I’ve ALWAYS used Mobil1 ESP 5w/30 Fully Synthetic Oil when carrying out oil changes for my own personal car, as it is a good quality make of oil and meets the stringent testing standards for VW. For those who don’t know, using the wrong oil in VAG family cars can cause sludge issues and a host of other problems. VAG family are really fussy when it comes to fluid. So it’s best to get the right ones. The oil is also low ash which reduces soot build up on the turbo and helps lower emissions for MOT testing. Additionally, I personally found that using this oil I never had to top it up. Newer VW based cars say it’s common to top up every 1000 miles or so. I’ve personally never had to top up once with my old VW Passat and since changing to this oil still haven’t to date. Oil is designed to lubricate and protect the engine, but don’t expect to drive at 100mph+ and not burn some oil. If you are doing normal town / motorway driving I wouldn’t worry though

Screenwash, it varies what I use at the time, however the last few years when I can afford it I’ve used Prestone Screenwash. A few years back I tested it at Asda when first released. It was around £2 for a 1Litre bottle and I loved it. It has an excellent rate of keeping the windscreen clear. I believe the formula must have a silicone compound added to it, as when I was driving I didn’t have to use my wipers much. This was because when washing my windows it was coating the windscreen in a layer which formed water to bead when driving and rolling off the windows quickly which enhanced the visibility when it was heavy rain and driving at high speeds. It also protects really low down which aids de-icing windscreens in the winter

 

BREAKDOWN

Tow Bar, generally if a car breaks down the old method of towing someone was just to use a rope to drag the car in tow and using the car in front to help recover it. This was banned for multiple safety reasons. One of the common problems that would occur was the driver behind was always having to use braking on the car to keep the tension between the towing car and the broken down vehicle. Anyone who’s driven a car with no brake assist knows how forceful you need to be, and if there is a sudden need to stamp on the brakes then it usually resulted in going into the rear of the car towing you. To overcome this, everyone now uses a rigid towing bar. The towing bar I use for recovery is a Clark 2-tonne towing bar with Spring Damper it suits all the requirements of a modern broken down vehicle. One of the main benefits is that it’s rigid, so there is no need for the driver behind to keep pressing the brakes, although they should still press them to assist the driver in front as the towing vehicle has to overcome the brake force of 2 x vehicle weight.  With a fixed rigid line, there is a constant tension between the vehicles, the spring damper helps reduce the loads between the two vehicles both when braking and pulling away. Any sudden “jerks” on a normal rope could potentially snap it. The equipment comes in 3-pieces which rapidly dismantle and goes away into a bag for ease of transport. Total weight approximately 5 kilograms.

 

SUMMER / WINTER ACCESSORIES

Ice Scraper, this is a bit of a tough decision really. Ice scrapers are generally only the thing you use when the weather gets bad but some people live in areas where the weather ices up a lot. I live in the UK so we rarely get much snow/ice unless there’s a bad spell across the pond. I’ve tried multiple variations of scraper, they all do the job to some extent. Although I’m trying to find one which suits the needs and does the job efficiently. This is the scraper I use so far is made by Signstek. It’s actually sold at Asda, but this is the closest match I could find online for those who don’t have a local Asda / Walmart store near them. I’ve tried the cheap scrapers which are the ones where they have a small sqeueegee at the end. I didn’t like them very much because you couldn’t get enough of a decent angle and the blade isn’t very sharp. Also found my hands were really cold. I’ve also tried the gloved ones where it’s a mitt with a scraper. These do the job at keeping your hands warm, and work fairly effectively, but the ones I had eventually started falling apart. This is more of a personal decision more than anything else, but I’m really liking the one I purchased from Asda to date. It’s a good length (around 8-9″) is made of stainless steel with a hardened plastic edge. It doesn’t appear to scratch the windscreen and it cuts through the ice very easily. I’m sure I’ll change this post, but this is the most effective one I have found to date and don’t intend on changing in a while.

Views – 1136

Nissan Laurel in UK

I always believe in when you’re down on your luck or when you need help the most there’s always someone in the right place at the right time. Today it wasn’t me who needed the help, but a stranded driver who’d just recently (probably 15 mins prior) just collected his car from the ferry and started the car (by jumper leads) but required Petrol at the nearest petrol station and had the unfortunately luck of a flat battery trying to start the car again

I needed diesel for my Golf, as luck would have it I spotted him stranded and he asked me if I had any jump leads. Was filling my car at the time, handed him my jumper pack out the boot and went to pay for fuel. Japanese performance cars tend to have shit batteries anyway, but when you’re stuck on a Ferry for 6 weeks or so any vehicle would be dead as a dodo.

I only know the car was probably on the ferry for that long because I happen to work for a company based at Port of Tyne where he collected his car from which regularly gets containers from Japan / China. As I said, there’s always a right place and a right time for everyone when someone is in need.

Now anyway, the car itself was a Nissan Laurel, apologies to the driver for the error I’d never seen one before and didn’t know what it was but he was clearly someone with a passion for cars. You generally get a feel for it when you’re into the culture and talk to people. I made the mistake of calling his car a Nissan Maxima. After talking with him and finding out his was the 3rd Nissan Laurel in the UK while trying to start his car, found out his engine was the RB26DETT, basically the same one as in the infamous Nissan Skylines. My knowledge on Nissan’s isn’t very par with experts, I thought the skyline engine was a 2.5T not a 2.6T but he corrected me it was from the GTS-T.

My jump station on the car wouldn’t start it as the battery on his car was fully depleted as the petrol station is merely 2-3 mins away from the Port so wouldn’t have charged and my jump start was too run down. We had some jumper cables but they weren’t able to supply enough power to the vehicle, they were too thin.

I thought I had mine in the boot (mental note, must put them back in) but stuck them back in the shed,,, bugger. After about 10-15 mins of farting around a van driver came in and luckily (as I mentioned, when you’re down on luck someone always there for you) had some heavy duty van/truck cables, they were around 3 metres long and had a 10-13mm copper core possibly thicker. Really chunky cabling and beastly clamps. You want a lot of current ideally need thick cabling and good clamps.

When I say good clamps I really mean some Heavy Duty Jumper Cables when you’re jump starting a car because in essence you are sharing the load from your vehicle to charge a dead battery. Don’t get the shitty thin ones, they do jack shit. Get some beastly clamps that look like they could rival an alligator and cabling that looks like it could hang a car from. Anyway, once we hooked the cables up did the usual jump procedure and I revved my engine to get the juice flowing and the Nissan Laurel fired up straight away. Sounded gorgeous too.

 

Thanked the drivers and went on my merry way. Felt happy doing a good deed for the day and saving someone the hassle of calling in a recovery truck and being stung for it. My good deed was rewarded, I won £4 on a scratchcard (woohoo) haha.

 

Still, if you see someone stranded and can help. Do the right thing if it won’t take up too much time. You never know when you will need help back

 

 

Views – 928

BMW starting issues

My brothers BMW recently had a bowt of starting issues with warnings being generated related to the fuel pump on the car

It would crank without starting. On initial investigation my brothers car wouldn’t get power to the fuel pump. The pump would power up if running a lead directly to the battery it would receive power

When running through the ignition system there would be no power generated to the pump. There was power going to all the fuses and relays it was not going to the module however.

More investigation with the BMW starting issues was required so the car was booked into an auto-electricians in Durham to trace and identify the fault. At a cost of £50 per hr labour I was expecting the job to be carried out fast or rectified. Especially this time of year I had to borrow money to sort things out

A couple of days later my brother received a call. The problems were being caused by the main power line running through the car for the brake controller. The power line was shorting out on the seabelt. This resulted in the main control module for the fuel pump for the car being electronically damaged and requiring replacement with a new one from BMW

The auto-electricians could jerry rig it to a hard wired switch but the complete job would need doing. My brother wanted it doing correctly so the full job would cost £480. This was for the module from BMW the price to code it to the car and the labour cost for all the work involved.

The work was carried out to the car working on £50 per hr labour I’m assuming the charge was for 5hrs labour a £30 coding fee and the controller itself for £180-200. The part had a 12-month warranty on it so if any problems can re-occur within 12 months then it can be repaired free of charge

The part number replaced was 092181506 made by HELBAKO

The car seemed to drive fine when I took it home and additionally it seemed more responsive so fingers crossed

I only had two gripes when collecting the car (well 3 if you count the 2 hrs sleep I had)

1) When collecting the car there was a brake warning light showing a bulb out. After checking them over couldn’t find any issues with lights. Brakes. Reverse lights. Indicators,  I’m assuming this was just a temporary message due to the car being worked on but I want to note this down in case of any future issues and this was a warning sign

2) The cost of the work involved. This wasn’t surprising you pay for the work involved. However the auto electrics only accept cash as a method of payment. This became a right chew on because money I withdrew for brother and out on his card meant we had to withdraw back out and pay off

Anyway £480 and three days later my brothers BMW starting issues have disappeared and his car is back on the road again.

I thought I’d write this post incase of any one else encounters similar problems with their vehicles and need something to look at

My brothers car is a 59 plate 3series BMW it’s an E90 edition (saloon model)

Below is a picture of the part that was replaced on the car

 

Views – 984

Seized piston on brake caliper

After having my brakes inspected at the garage due to heavy vibrations when I was accelerating / braking. I suspected a warped brake disc or wheel balancing issue

 

My brother informed me that the piston was seized on my drivers side brake caliper at the front and it would need replacing. This was causing excessive heat when driving and was the cause of the over heating brake pads and vibrations that I felt.

 

I purchased some replacement brake pads and discs for my car from KNS and a new caliper for a total of £135.39 after giving them my cars registration, talk about a nightmare day

 

Me and my brother went through early morning to replace the discs and pads, the discs were 100% the right fitment because the part number on them matched a previous set I had bought.

 

We were unable to check the caliper was right until fitment, but visually inspecting it turned out to be correct. One comment I mentioned was I hope they gave me the right brake pads…. oh low behold me and my bad luck. They weren’t the right pads, they were for my model of car, but not my model of vehicle.

 

The pads for my car used different types of lugs to hold them in place on the caliper, they’re ones which point down, where the pads I was given were more slot in. I think the pads were for the 110HP model and mine is the 140 as they’re also smaller than the ones I currently use

 

Basically I had to do a trip to a local car parts store, which luckily is open 7 days per week. Get there early morning with my existing calipers and compared them against the ones I purchased and they were an exact match…. this is exactly the reason why I’m very awkward about VW, if you get the wrong gear your fubar’d

 

Anyway, in returning back, Steven had already changed the caliper, luckily and the new pads were correct (albeit, didn’t have ABS wear sensor, but a dummy wire was fitted so it didn’t trip the warning alarm).

 

At a later date I’ll order some parts from a site I’ve used before “Brake parts superstore”. I’ll be rebuilding my existing caliper as a spare for a Youtube Video and Article for the website and posting further detail in the brake article

Views – 1250

Timing belt replacement

Low and behold, after owning the car that had a lowly 32,000 miles on it when I first purchased and “Full” VWSH, my car was approaching the 80,000 mile limit for timing belt replacement

Normally I go through around 1,000 miles per month and at current mileage it would be around summer next year when it needed replacement but I decided to carry out the timing belt replacement early as I’m expecting this winter to be a cold one and don’t want extra strain on the vehicle during the snow. The current mileage on the vehicle is 73,472 before the timing belt replacement. Which means my next one shouldn’t really be due until 140-150,000 miles

One of the main factors I wanted was using genuine parts (ideally) for the replacement. After market parts are generally the same as manufacturers parts just without the stamp on them, but I’d prefer knowing I’m using the genuine kit so I know what I’m getting on the vehicle when it’s repaired.

It took me a while to select someone to carry out the timing belt replacement on my Golf, because I’m fussy. Use the wrong grade of antifreeze or miss changing important parts and your engine is knackered.

Rather than take it to a dealer, I decided to have it carried out at a specialist. After a lot of searching and a LONG email trail (sorry Ben), I decided to have the work carried out at Darcys Garage a VW specialist in County Durham. Their tech worked for Audi for 10 years so has experience working with this vehicle.

The total quote I received for replacement of the following parts was around £400. For one major component on the car, I wasn’t fussed about spending more money. I don’t like “cheap” always when it comes to cars

The job was carried out after dropping the car off early in the morning and finished around 4 hrs later.

The following parts were replaced with genuine VW gear

  • Water pump (the ORIGINAL has a plastic impellor, and so does the genuine one), hopefully I won’t get the common impellor issues, my original one lasted until 75,000 so fingers crossed
  • Timing belt. This included the belt and all tensioners
  • Antifreeze – I don’t know what, but I’m assumming it was correct grade that suits VW spec. I think mine is G80 or G80++
  • Alternator belt

Total price came to £385

The car didn’t feel any different when driving it, how it stands up will only show test of time. If anything fails I’ll be certainly taking it back to the garage to be inspected as the original equipment should last me for the next 7-8 years.

At the moment I’m happy with the work received and will recommend Darcy’s garage as it was friendly, fast and great value for money. My car will stand the test of time to find out.

Only downside is the car parking, is VERY limited

I’ll be posting a more in-depth information on my website, including pictures of the equipment and part numbers used. I couldn’t keep the original water pump as it had to go to VW, but it seemed to be in very good condition, no issues with it detaching from the impellor spline. Tried to get a pic but my phone was up the duff.

If you want to look at these pictures go here

Views – 1246

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