Apologies for any downtime caused on this site, I recently decided to change web hosts because quite frankly I’m sick of my old one. I had constant never ending problems and in the end I carried out a Server Migration to a different webhost
As you can tell by this post, the server migration was carried out. Eventually! I had so many problems to sort out and still do. Everything about my old configuration was completely muddled on with by my old host to get it working, as such the server migration wasn’t a straight forward process.
The account restore didn’t work, I had to manually download the databases because they had to be restored. Had to alter the database names, had to manually edit the server names in the configuration files and carry out a db restore. Also had an issue with the .htaccess
I’m happy now, I’ve found a new host, in the name of Tech-Hosts. I love them so much I migrated to them with my personal site as well, highly recommend you check them out
Views – 420
OK, one of the problems about being an owner of VW family cars, is you get lazy (or at least I did). I neglected to check my oil since the last change, because my cars have never used a drop of them. It always pays to do maintenance and regularly check your car fluids.
Today whilst driving to work I received the VW Golf Oil Warning Light (Yellow one), needless to say my arse was looser than someone who’d just been buggered by an elephant. I was crapping myself. If the light was flashing, it would mean sensor. Given that I don’t check my oil often, I was confident it was the level anyway
For information, here’s a quote directly from the above source:
Red warning lights mean you should stop the car as soon as it’s safe.
Yellow warning lights mean that action is required.
Green warning lights are for information only.
I knew I’d get to work and I’d just top it up at work, there are two warning lights on the VW Golf Oil and most other car systems. Generally speaking, the warning lights are:
- Yellow (low oil level, it’s at the absolute minimum) – Fill urgently, ideally stop
- Red (low oil pressure, this is dangerous) – Stop immediately, your engine will seize
Both situations are dangerous, I drove about 10 miles with the yellow light on, OK, I shouldn’t have, but I need to get to work, and knew I still had some oil in the car and driving that many miles wouldn’t cause it to fail.
I did however do some remedial actions, my car has never used oil. I do however drive my car really hard at times. I’ve always used the FULL rev range on my car so it gets the good old Italian tune up regularly to keep it healthy. The downside is it burns oil faster. That and I think I have a leaking intercooler which won’t help
Anyway, generally, the harder you drive your car, the faster the oil gets burnt. Basically hotter engine, faster spinning engine means more lubrication. So I took the safer option, I drove to work in 6th gear @ 50mph. Revs were around 1500rpm, which was really low, so didn’t put the engine under load much
Once I arrived at work, I went to top up Oil…… open boot, ermmm, hang on, didn’t I put the oil in the Garage at home one day?…. Oh, shit
I did check my oil when I got to work, and the dipstick wasn’t even reading at minimum…. by the way. Volkswagens dipsticks are REALLY badly designed on the VW Golf MK5. You get this crappy BLACK plastic with two balls on (for minimum and maximum). Yeah, it’s good in theory. You can read the oil level at any temp, however you have two problems here
- Oil is BLACK, dipstick is BLACK….. go figure
- Those little balls, yeah they stick out. Which means they SCRAP the oil tube coming up. So screws up your reading
If you are reading this VW, go back to the OLD style dipsticks. A metal based ones with little dotted ends, they’re SOOO much easier to read (I’m even thinking of modding my old Passat one). Even making the balls smaller would help
Anyway, long story short. I got my car home safely. Although I was expecting to receive the low oil warning light when coming home I didn’t… I didn’t want to chance it though. So repeated my driving conditions to keep the pressures low and reduce the chance of my engine committing a suicidial Harikari – if you’re reading this my little VW, I wubs you. Don’t break on me :O(
So, I filled up my car with about 3 litres of Mobil1 5w/30 ESP when I got home since it’s my preferred choice of Oil. Will do me until I buy some new drums, and chucked an old Castol Edge 5w/30 oil in the boot. I don’t like it, but it meets VW 505.00 standard (although the MK5 Golf is 505.01, or even 505.02 – I can’t remember) and end of the day, some oil is better than no oil. A car will still drive with shitty oil, it’s just not the optimum design for the engine
So as a future note, it always pays attention to those 2 mins. Avoid getting the VW Golf Oil Warning Light like I did, and save yourself some money in the long run from a potential rebuild
Views – 1568
I don’t own a Ford, but decided to write this article after speaking with someone I know who owns a Ford being let down with bad customer service.
With regards to vehicle repairs under warranty. I decided to make this post to see what everyone else thinks, or if someone else has a story to tell
Basically, someone I know purchased a car from a Ford dealership (2nd hand). The vehicle was sitting in the yard before they purchased it for an unknown amount of time. The person I know has taken it back to Ford a total of 4 times and is being mugged off each time that there is nothing wrong with it.
The person kept reporting that when they were driving the ABS was kicking in at low speeds and making a noise (ie braking normally on a motorway or roundabouts). Also there was a horrible burnt smell when stopping. Ford techs were adamant nothing was wrong but changed the Front Brake pads and discs. I believe his car is a Ford Fiesta
Now, to me after about 5 minutes of conversation. I diagnosed it was a seized brake caliper on the car, and to me this needs to be fixed under the warranty but the Ford UK dealership it was purchased from are adamant nothing is wrong with the car and that the “noise” he was hearing was because of the sensor being on the front left of the car so it will trigger whenever it hits a pothole. Generally the symptoms of a seized brake caliper on the car are ….
- Vehicle pulls to one side when braking
- Horrible smell (similar to burnt clutch)
- Excessive heat being produced from wheel. Generally when you pull over after a normal drive, most consumer brake discs are cool to touch. A brake caliper that is seizing however will be generating more heat. So if you walk around the car and move your hands over the alloys, you should be able to feel heat being emanated from the brake disc that has the seized caliper
I did all this diagnosis in the space of a 10-15 minute conversation. To me the above reason sounds absolute rubbish. End of the day, the fact that he said there was a smell when he was getting out AND the car has had NEW brake pads and discs would immediately tell me something is wrong with the piston on the caliper. It doesn’t take much to work out.
I’m a computer geek (and amateur DIY car mechanic) and can still diagnose a faulty issue with the brakes. The fact is, the car was sitting in the compound where he bought the car from. They should have done a FULL brake fluid flush when servicing the car before he purchased it. Brake fluid is in the region of £5. The problem with brake fluid is that overtime it breaks down and water inside it starts to cause rust build up. This is why the brake pistons stuck and don’t retract because of this build up. So it’s normally either a full brake fluid flush + rebuilt caliper, or if the caliper is REALLY bad a replacement caliper.
All the mechanics are fobbing him off, he did go back after speaking to me but they keep sending him away saying nothing is wrong. I’ve suggested he goes to trading standards. This is safety issue. Firstly a seized brake caliper will affect braking performance on the car and cause excessive brake wear. Most importantly, if the caliper is seized, there is potential that the brake caliper can cause excessive build up and actually bind onto the disc itself. Imagine driving along the road at 70mph, then the brake caliper sticks and locks your wheel……?
Overall, in my experience this is a poor experience from a Ford dealership, and the whole reason why I don’t let any dealerships work on my car. At least when I’m working on it, I only have myself to blame. I also know what parts are being replaced on my car, and they are quality items. The other reason is servicing cost, but considering this vehicle was under warranty it shouldn’t have mattered in the long run.
Pretty shameful customer service from Ford UK, especially when I was considering going to Ford for my next car aswell.
Have a story to tell? Let me know in the comments
Views – 375
Decided it was time to treat my car to an annual car service. My oil gets changed every year or every 6000 miles depending on how hard I’ve been driving it. Whilst my car is on a fixed interval service, it still works like flexible servicing. So my car actually monitors the way I drive and gives me a dash warning when a service is due.
My car now has 84,000 on the clock so is about 2000 over due than normal, so decided to give it a fresh overhaul.
Items ordered :
- Pagid Front Brakes (288mm x 25mm – discs) & Pads
- Pagid Rear Brakes (255 x 15mm – discs) & Pads
- 4 x Bosch Glow Plugs
- Crossland Air Filter
- Crossland Pollen Filter
- VW OEM Oil Filter, Sump Plug & Washer
- 5 Litres Mobil1 5W/30 ESP Oil
- Bosch Aerotwin Front Wipers
- Bosch Aerotwin Rear Wiper
I didn’t bother with the Fuel Filter since I use Shell diesel around 80-90% of the time I fill up my car. I don’t believe in supermarket fuel and my filter was only changed around 15K ago.
- Seized caliper piston on brake (NSF)
- I actually didn’t know it was seized at first, it was tough to get in but I changed it. When going for a drive there was a horrible burnt clutch smell. The piston was stuck so it was burning the pad on my disc. In the end I got a replacement (which didn’t fit, my fault!) with no where open on a Sunday my brother had to recon the piston best he could. Piston was removed, sanded down and reinstalled. Brakes were bled. I know this method doesn’t work for long, but it will give me enough time to order a new brake caliper as a backup for when it goes wrong
- “Seized” rear pistons on calipers – I was pissed off at this because they were new. Turns out I needed to clamp the flexi hose and open the bleed nipple completely, they wound back… few!
- Snapped brake pad wear sensor (this needs doing) don’t want to turn it off, I know it can be fixed but I’m going to get a new sensor and wire a new one in
Views – 519
OK, OK, my computer has finally been bugging me long enough about carrying out the Windows 10 Upgrade. My past experience with Windows is painful, I always lose files, or had to back up things and reinstall applications. So I decided to bite the proverbial bullet, I was sick of hearing Windows 7 moan on at me about the upgrade being available. I decided the hell with it, and carried out the upgrade after backup of all my files
The result…. pleasantly surprised, the upgrade went smooth. I checked the compatibility report first and backed up everything I could lose before hand. Luckily, nothing went amiss and everything was reinstalled. All my internet shortcuts, desktop shortcuts, installed applications. Nothing failed.
Props to Microsoft, my Windows 10 Upgrade was flawless and you have redeemed yourself. For I did not lose any files, nor did I have to reinstall any applications or find anything new.
OK, there is a down point, I have a new interface, which I sort of don’t like. I was used to Windows 7, but that’s just a change. I really don’t like the sounds, and the Cortana search. Hey, I consider myself a power user though, I’m no amateur when it comes to PCs. So overall my experience with the upgrade was a positive one.
Just learning the new features now, I’ll be updating this blog if I find anything amiss.
Views – 347
One thing which is becoming apparent to me since owning a business, when reading all the posts people are making who run their own businesses, is how many people seem to offer legitimate Windows installations for cheap prices or blatantly offering cracked Windows installations.
If you are running a business, not only is it unethical, but you are running the risk of serious issues if uncovered. That’s why I will only use genuine copies of Windows when reinstalling software, or making sure I have a valid COA key. IF there is no genuine key then I won’t carry out a cracked Windows Install. I’ll simply advise the customer to purchase a genuine COA key / Install of the software.
If they refuse, they’re business is turned down
Views – 340
After around 7 or 8 years of some tough abuse and shredding my Fellowes PS-77CS Shredder has finally given up the ghost and failed on me.
The machine is getting power, but it doesn’t run the shredder motor. There are signs of power going to the device, because it detects win the bin is open and lights up the red light to say it’s open. The light goes off when you push in the Micro switch so this tells me the sensor circuit was working fine and the problem was more electrical as opposed to mechanical.
I did some dismantling of the actual equipment. Fairly simple, lift it up and remove about 10 screws. Open the lid then disconnect the wire attaching the motor to the PCB. I did a quick look around the circuit and couldn’t find any specific issues.
I finally identified the problem, I went to remove the PCB so I could look up the schematics and when removing it the transformer was literally hanging on a couple of threads of copper wire. So it came off easy enough (picture below)
I decided to remove it, as it was evident to me the transformer is what caused the problem. For those who don’t know, a transformer receives an incoming voltage in a circuit and then alters it for the output side (either by increasing or decreasing it). In this case, it’s receiving an input voltage of ~220v and outputting it into ~15.6v from what I can find online (these are the specs). I’ve wrote them below if anyone finds them useful.
Input Voltage : 220V
Output Voltage : 15.6V / 15.6V
Dimensions???? : 8*11
No Idea???? : 3+4
Now, when researching online, it seems these transformers are commonly fitted to the Fellowes shredder models and seem to be the weak point of them. The point of failure is usually when the shredder falls over or gets banged about a bit. The transformer / PCB are mounted upside down in the shredder motor. So if the unit falls over it can damage it. Essentially it’s dangling on it’s own internals.
A common fix suggested by one user seems to be fitting an M2730 transformer, which is slightly bigger then hot glue it in place so it doesn’t damage it if it falls. I looked up this product and unfortunately it’s a discontinued product. So I may try places like eBay or Farnells/CPC in the UK to try and source one.
In the meantime I have emailed Customer Support at Fellowes to see if they stock spares. I’m more than happy to fit the equipment myself to get it up and working again. Failing that I’ll source one online if they cannot supply. The equipment by Fellowes is amazing. It’s stood up to some tough abuse from myself, but I’d rather not pay £100 for a new shredder if I can fix it myself for around £20
I’ll update this post as I go, hope some of you find it useful and helps you on your quest with your Fellows PS-77CS Shredder or others.
PS : If your from Fellowes, I’ll happily receive a new shredder from you if you offer me one. I wouldn’t complain 🙂
Views – 656
Every now and then, you get the occasional idiot who tries to scam some poor user out of their account information by showing information affiliated to the company in question
I received an email from “Paypal” support
I already knew it was dubious from experience, but decided to carefully investigate it. The user in question owned a website (hosted by godaddy) and had a blog with a purposely hidden upload link with a redirect onto a fake paypal login
They’re getting smarter and smarter, but when displaying links to unknown pages, always hover your mouse over them and check out the address first. It should always match the domain where it’s coming from
Needless to say I hate scammers. So I reported the domain abuse to godaddy and rackspace, and I’ll also be reporting them to paypay, eBay and the local authorities
Views – 430
Recently I’ve been having problems where I work regarding my pay. As such I’m constantly digging around for my old payslips. After long and hard looking for them I finally got sick and decided to make good use of the scanner I had lying around home and convert all my paper ones to electronic payslips.
Not only can I scan them into an electronic format, it means that with electronic payslips, I can also create my own archiving system for storing my information at a glance. This makes them easier to find, and I know should I need important information it is there straight away.
It’s a slow process, but something I’ll only need to do the once. The benefit is when it’s converted, I’ll be able to input all my salary details into a sheet straight away. Open them up or send on information as requested.
I’m also making good use of my printer which rarely gets used anyway. Now I can scan them and put them somewhere where I’ll forget them. The only important thing I’ll need now will be a secure USB pen to store them on like the datAshur which I will be buying next.
Consider doing it yourself, work smarter, not harder..
Views – 453
I received an automated email as I’m subscribed to newsletters from datAshur to inform me that their current USB pen is now certified to FIPS Level 3
FIPS is a military grade encryption system which is certified by the US Government. For a manufacturer to achieve this level of security with their USB pens is great, as it means their tech is highly secure and minimises the risk of confidential information falling into the wrong hands
Here is the essential information on the PEN:
The datAshur SSD has been certified as FIPS 140-2 Level 3 having undergone the process of validation to meet the U.S. government standards for information technology and computer security. NIST FIPS 140 is the cryptography standard program required by the US federal government for protection of sensitive data.
The datAshur SSD’s FIPS 140-2 validation covers 11 areas of its cryptographic security system, including physical security, cryptographic key management and design integrity. Available in four levels, the datAshur SSD’s FIPS 140-2 Level 3 certification encompasses both the datAshur SSD’s physical tamper-resistant features as well as its identity-based authentication. View the FIPS 140-2 Level 3 certificate here.
Military Grade XTS AES 256-bit Hardware Encryption
PIN Activated 7-16 Digits – Alphanumeric keypad use a memorable number or word for your PIN
OS & Platform independent – compatible with Windows, Mac, Linux, Chrome, Android, Thin Clients
and Embedded Systems
Super-fast USB 3.0 – up to 195MB/sec read and 162MB/sec write
FIPS 140-2 Level 3 Certified
IP58 Certified – dust and water resistant
Capacities – 30GB, 60GB, 120GB & 240GB
I myself will be getting one of the datAshur pens because I love them, you can also buy one from their website
Views – 391