One of the best things about being a male, is we think out of the box, and sometimes we’re just downright lazy so will use whatever is at hand.
I’ve worked in Warehousing for 10 years with steep toe caps and tough shoes. So over time I developed hard calluses on my feet from walking/wearing them
Found the solution that doesn’t involve Listerine
The Man file! 🙂
If you’re ever looking for a good file to remove hard skin (or even superglue on fingers), keep a good Metal File handy. I had plenty of metal files lying around that I never use, so kept one aside just for random shit in the house.
The main (annoying) problem that I’ve had after changing to my Audi A3 Sportback is that my music options have been restricted. The Audi has an “Aux” input so that you can hook up an external Audio source to the car. Now here lies the problem(s)
#1 – I had to find a cable. No problem, rummaged through the old boxes, found one #Winner #2 – Cable plugs into the Aux in car, when attempting to connect to the SamsungS7 it’s too small….. shit! #3 – I don’t have an adapter cable for Samsung S7 to 3.5mm…. double shit!!
Now, I’m not one to admit defeat, so I needed a solution. Time to bodge it
Old pair of Samsung S7 Headphones – Check
One incompatible 3.5mm to 3.5mm Cable – Check
One person who likes to modify and hack stuff so it works. DAMN RIGHT!
Now, there’s one main problem even after all this. Which I don’t think is a problem as such, I think it’s just the design of the connectors (or I’ve soldered them wrongly). I’m going to mention it here however, just as a guidance note, and for future input if anyone who understands it better than me can clarify. Basically when soldered together, I used the multimeter to check for continuity between each individual connection. As they are isolated, there should be none except for the points. The Samsung S7 has one point which isn’t soldered anywhere which is the Mic connector.
POTENTIAL CAUTION All the other three points I soldered from the TRS Jack to the TRRS Jack and their appropriate connectors. When I tested for continuity however, I get continuinty between Ground and the Right Channel on TRS/TRRS. I have grounds themselves, and the solder points are fine. So I’m not sure if I burned through the insulation, or if it’s because of the type of jacks I’m using. I did a quick search online, and the grounds themselves on diagrams are both linked up to the actual L/R channels anyway. The comments posted said there’s no issue soldering L/R to Ground, as long as you have continuity between the Grounds. I did so I’m happy with that. I’m just noting this here, so if anyone else attempts this modification, they’re aware of any potential risks or damage to their vehicle. I’m confident it won’t cause damage so I’m happy to continue using it.
Here’s how I made the Aux Cable. First I had to identify the connectors which correspond to the wires (Found here). So, the standard connector I have is a TRS (Balanced Mono) and the Samsung S7 appears to be a TRRS connector (Balanced Stereo). Get the old multimeter out, and run continuity tests between the individually isolated terminals, and their corresponding solder points/wires. This allowed me to identify the Ground, Mic, Left and Right Channels
Just as a note, I was intially going to solder to the wires. The cables in the Samsung S7 Headphone cable however are ridiculously thin. So I ended up snipping it until I got to the plug itself and soldered directly to the jack. Much nicer and looks way better in my opinion
Does it work? – Yes. I had to slightly fine tune mine as the balance was off slightly. I had to fade it to the left by 1 bar. Otherwise it’s nice and clear and loud now. I recommend turning your Volume up to it’s maximum on your phone after it’s plugged in, as it’s quiet when left on “normal” volumes.
If you are planning on making your own Aux Cable, I’d suggest buying TRRS connectors so that when you solder them it’s just a straight connection to connection, and each individual wire is isolated. Also for the cable, you’d need some kind of speaker cable with 3 cores (One for left, one for righ, one for ground).
If you’re here for the pictures of this modification, see below.
Just as a future note, this DID work, but it was only a temporary measure. I ended up buy an Aux Cable from eBay that was braided. Here’s a similar one on Amazon
Over time my washing machine has been developing a fault. I thought I had spilled water down the back of it because when I switched it on, every light on the front panel would flash continuously. Sometimes it would stop, and others it would just keep going and going.
This causes an issue when I’m trying to do my washing up, did some research because I got sick of it and discovered it’s actually a really common fault with washing machines (usually by Hotpoint / Creda / Ariston). The main capacitor on the electronics board (usually C17 Capacitor) has failed.
To fix the issue it’s a case of replacing the capacitors. Reading horror stories on the internet suggests calling out a washing machine engineer, they would simply replace the board and reprogram it. Costing the end user around £150
The article that follows shows how I fixed my washing machine for £15
Solder Wick (2.8mm x 1.5m)
Soldering Iron, Tip Cleaner & Solder
Replacement Capacitor(s) – They need to be ELECTROLYTIC
You will need to double check, but most likely it will be…
25V / 100uF
10V / 680uF
10v / 470uF
Once you have verified the correct capacitors for your board you will need to remove them from the board. I’m not the best at soldering, so everyone has their own technique, not to mention the soldering iron I had was a really cheap one that didn’t heat up well. This is the technique I used
Cleaned the tip of the iron after heating
Apply a small amount of solder to the iron
Put the solder wick over the board around the capacitor leg and wick it up
Keep repeating the procedure until the leg is free, clean iron each time
It’s hard to describe the wicking process, but basically having the extra solder on the iron seems to increase the heat and make it easier to wick the hold solder off. Don’t bother with those plunger removers, they’re just annoying. Use the reel and it will be all off really quickly. In terms of cleaning the tip I used one of those metallic pan scrubbers you get from Asda (the balls of metal) what you use for cleaning stainless steel. The true kits use brass balls, but for cheap soldering irons I don’t really care. It worked well
Once you have removed the solder from all the pins, remove the capacitors. Insert the replacement capacitors inside the holes you made which should be clean, making sure you align (+ to +) and (- to -). You should find that there is a small white circle for the negative side and a + mark on the board for positive. Also on the capacitor the negative side there will be lines down the side. If there are no lines, the “shorter” leg of the capacitor is the negative side
After you have inserted a capacitor, tip the board upside down. Clean the tip of the iron, and let the end hit up (to the point where solder melts on touch), clean the tip again so it’s shiny. Then hold the hot point of the iron to the metal leg of the capacitor and touch the solder onto it, you should find the solder melts. Apply a small amount of solder so it covers the peg and then remove the solder, then remove the iron (this entire process should only take 2 or 3 seconds).
Soldering new caps
Clean the iron tip each time, and reapply solder to all the board points. Once you have resoldered all the connectors onto the board, snip off the end metal pieces with scissors / pliers. Your work should then be complete
The new capacitors installed
Now you just need to test the board, personally, I was paranoid of doing anything during first install so I hooked up all of the cables into the board and switched on the machine without the water connected so I had acccess to switch off the power if there was any problems.
The board back in its housing
The washing machine switched on straight away with no flashing lights. Plumbed in the hose after switching it off again and set away two loads. It is now repaired and this is how I fixed my washing machine for £15