DIY Aux Cable for Audi A3

The main (annoying) problem that I’ve had after changing to my Audi A3 Sportback is that my music options have been restricted. The Audi has an “Aux” input so that you can hook up an external Audio source to the car. Now here lies the problem(s)

#1 – I had to find a cable. No problem, rummaged through the old boxes, found one #Winner
#2 – Cable plugs into the Aux in car, when attempting to connect to the SamsungS7 it’s too small….. shit!
#3 – I don’t have an adapter cable for Samsung S7 to 3.5mm…. double shit!!

Now, I’m not one to admit defeat, so I needed a solution. Time to bodge it

  • Old pair of Samsung S7 Headphones – Check
  • One incompatible 3.5mm to 3.5mm Cable – Check
  • One person who likes to modify and hack stuff so it works. DAMN RIGHT!

Now, there’s one main problem even after all this. Which I don’t think is a problem as such, I think it’s just the design of the connectors (or I’ve soldered them wrongly). I’m going to mention it here however, just as a guidance note, and for future input if anyone who understands it better than me can clarify. Basically when soldered together, I used the multimeter to check for continuity between each individual connection. As they are isolated, there should be none except for the points. The Samsung S7 has one point which isn’t soldered anywhere which is the Mic connector.

All the other three points I soldered from the TRS Jack to the TRRS Jack and their appropriate connectors. When I tested for continuity however, I get continuinty between Ground and the Right Channel on TRS/TRRS. I have grounds themselves, and the solder points are fine. So I’m not sure if I burned through the insulation, or if it’s because of the type of jacks I’m using. I did a quick search online, and the grounds themselves on diagrams are both linked up to the actual L/R channels anyway. The comments posted said there’s no issue soldering L/R to Ground, as long as you have continuity between the Grounds. I did so I’m happy with that. I’m just noting this here, so if anyone else attempts this modification, they’re aware of any potential risks or damage to their vehicle. I’m confident it won’t cause damage so I’m happy to continue using it.

Here’s how I made the Aux Cable. First I had to identify the connectors which correspond to the wires (Found here). So, the standard connector I have is a TRS (Balanced Mono) and the Samsung S7 appears to be a TRRS connector (Balanced Stereo). Get the old multimeter out, and run continuity tests between the individually isolated terminals, and their corresponding solder points/wires. This allowed me to identify the Ground, Mic, Left and Right Channels

Just as a note, I was intially going to solder to the wires. The cables in the Samsung S7 Headphone cable however are ridiculously thin. So I ended up snipping it until I got to the plug itself and soldered directly to the jack. Much nicer and looks way better in my opinion

Does it work? – Yes. I had to slightly fine tune mine as the balance was off slightly. I had to fade it to the left by 1 bar. Otherwise it’s nice and clear and loud now. I recommend turning your Volume up to it’s maximum on your phone after it’s plugged in, as it’s quiet when left on “normal” volumes.

If you are planning on making your own Aux Cable, I’d suggest buying TRRS connectors so that when you solder them it’s just a straight connection to connection, and each individual wire is isolated. Also for the cable, you’d need some kind of speaker cable with 3 cores (One for left, one for righ, one for ground).

If you’re here for the pictures of this modification, see below.

Just as a future note, this DID work, but it was only a temporary measure. I ended up buy an Aux Cable from eBay that was braided. Here’s a similar one on Amazon

How I fixed my washing machine for £15

Over time my washing machine has been developing a fault. I thought I had spilled water down the back of it because when I switched it on, every light on the front panel would flash continuously. Sometimes it would stop, and others it would just keep going and going.

This causes an issue when I’m trying to do my washing up, did some research because I got sick of it and discovered it’s actually a really common fault with washing machines (usually by Hotpoint / Creda / Ariston). The main capacitor on the electronics board (usually C17 Capacitor) has failed.

Board Inpsection

Damaged capacitors

To fix the issue it’s a case of replacing the capacitors. Reading horror stories on the internet suggests calling out a washing machine engineer, they would simply replace the board and reprogram it. Costing the end user around £150

The article that follows shows how I fixed my washing machine for £15


  • Solder Wick (2.8mm x 1.5m)
  • Soldering Iron, Tip Cleaner & Solder
  • Replacement Capacitor(s) – They need to be ELECTROLYTIC
    • You will need to double check, but most likely it will be…
      • 25V / 100uF
      • 10V / 680uF
      • 10v / 470uF

Once you have verified the correct capacitors for your board you will need to remove them from the board. I’m not the best at soldering, so everyone has their own technique, not to mention the soldering iron I had was a really cheap one that didn’t heat up well. This is the technique I used


  • Cleaned the tip of the iron after heating
  • Apply a small amount of solder to the iron
  • Put the solder wick over the board around the capacitor leg and wick it up
  • Keep repeating the procedure until the leg is free, clean iron each time

It’s hard to describe the wicking process, but basically having the extra solder on the iron seems to increase the heat and make it easier to wick the hold solder off. Don’t bother with those plunger removers, they’re just annoying. Use the reel and it will be all off really quickly. In terms of cleaning the tip I used one of those metallic pan scrubbers you get from Asda (the balls of metal) what you use for cleaning stainless steel. The true kits use brass balls, but for cheap soldering irons I don’t really care. It worked well


Once you have removed the solder from all the pins, remove the capacitors. Insert the replacement capacitors inside the holes you made which should be clean, making sure you align (+ to +) and (- to -). You should find that there is a small white circle for the negative side and a + mark on the board for positive. Also on the capacitor the negative side there will be lines down the side. If there are no lines, the “shorter” leg of the capacitor is the negative side



After you have inserted a capacitor, tip the board upside down. Clean the tip of the iron, and let the end hit up (to the point where solder melts on touch), clean the tip again so it’s shiny. Then hold the hot point of the iron to the metal leg of the capacitor and touch the solder onto it, you should find the solder melts. Apply a small amount of solder so it covers the peg and then remove the solder, then remove the iron (this entire process should only take 2 or 3 seconds).

Soldering capacitors

Soldering new caps

Clean the iron tip each time, and reapply solder to all the board points. Once you have resoldered all the connectors onto the board, snip off the end metal pieces with scissors / pliers. Your work should then be complete

Installed capacitors

The new capacitors installed

Now you just need to test the board, personally, I was paranoid of doing anything during first install so I hooked up all of the cables into the board and switched on the machine without the water connected so I had acccess to switch off the power if there was any problems.

Repaired board fitted

The board back in its housing

The washing machine switched on straight away with no flashing lights. Plumbed in the hose after switching it off again and set away two loads. It is now repaired and this is how I fixed my washing machine for £15



VW Golf MK5 Bonnet not closing

Volkswagen Golf MK5 Bonnet not closing : DIY Guide

To read the PDF and HTML versions of this guide you can find them HERE and HERE

The only two tools you will essentially need for the car. A T20 and T27 torx bit. Optional tools can be some insulation tape to hold the plastic guide in place as I found mine kept coming loose every now and then when refitting it to the car aswell as some zip ties and a flat-head screwdriver if you don’t have good pinching grip with your fingers.

The two T20 screws here and remove them from the car {yellow}, these are the screws just next to the headlights in this picture and then once they are removed from the car squeeze in the two plastic clips {red} can do one at a time and then remove the grill from the car.

It’s best to release the tension on the release handle for the bonnet lock before you start the assembly. Mine was always coming loose and I couldn’t work out why. I’m summising it is also because it doesn’t give enough flexibility to the new lock module after you have installed it into your car and it pushes it out of placement. Either this or it’s because the lock runner isn’t installed properly into the bonnet lock. This is how you release the tension on the pulley.Unclip the side casing around the housing that holds the wire for the tensioner and the spring (it’s behind the drivers headlight). It has two little clips to the sides of each will help to release the cover. Then it just comes straight off.Once the cover is off, you can pull the wire and the casing out. The wire itself has a metal ball at the end which fits in a housing in the plastic from the adjoining car side. Just disconnect them and they’re free. In the above examples you can see the casing, the hole which holds the ball for the release lever and the ball itself. It’s fairly easy to do and requires no effort to reinstall back onto the car.

This is the layout of the T27 screws holding the lock in place on the car. There are two long ones holding the main part of the unit itself and a short one that holds the catch bar in place on the car. Make sure to fit these in the correct orientation when refitting your lock. This is a comparison to the lock placement in the above picture for future reference should it be required.

Once the screws for the lock have been removed from the car, it should be a case of extracting it. There is no real tension to it, you should be be able to remove it just by pulling on the normal piece of metal where the bonnet lock catches onto when you shut it after this it’s just a case of extracting it.

This is the plastic inside the guide, this must be fitted to the car otherwise it loses all tension in the bonnet release cable. It’s used to hold the cable the correct distance and so it doesn’t come loose from the car when fitting it
A common problem that I had when I was fitting the tensioner cable to the plastic guide was that it was slipping out and losing grip of the actual guide. This resulted in the cable losing tension and the lock not operating properly. I thought this may have been more due to not refitting the lock correctly but I didn’t want to take any chances. So I bodged the lock with some gaffer tape too. This was to reduce the chances of it coming off when I was trying to refit the lock back into the housing

This is how the wire should be connected to the car when the plastic guide is fitted to it. Or at least how I fitted it to my car, I’ve had no issues after fitting it to the car. Bonnet opens perfectly fine now

Refitting is a complete reversal of the removal procedure, before refitting the grill to the car, it is best to make sure the lock opens. You can manually force the lock closed on the car whilst the bonnet is open. When this has been done, make sure the lock tensioner ball has been reconnected again and then pull on the handle in the car. If the lock opens you should be OK for refitting the grill to the car.
To summarise the refitting procedure once the lock has been replaced on the car itself…

  • Replace lock and all screws (there is a slight notch, use this to guide lock through)
  • Refit the tensioner ball
  • Reconnect the switch for the bonnet open alarm (be careful not to damage it)
  • Manually close the lock with a screwdriver
  • Try opening the lock from inside the car. If it works then everything should be good for repairing

DIY – Custom WordPress Template

There’s one thing that’s been bugging me since I created my site which I’m determined to resolve

When I created this site, I wanted to have pages at the top of my screen which I could click on them in order to filter all posts in that category by their tag or “base” category

This is proving rather difficult and annoying. So this will be my DIY attempt at resolving the problem

I’m currently doing a dev version of this template in order to workaround this problem. I’ll be releasing the code if I get it working to help out others. I’ve tried different functions and plugins which should resolve this, but quite frankly they’re still confusing as shit to get working or they didn’t suit my needs

I’ve tried wp-postviews and cat + tag filter amongst others