How to refill your fuel filter using VCDS

Technologies changes over time. Whenever you worked on your car and replaced the Fuel Filter. If it wasn’t an intank Fuel Filter, one of the problems you used to encounter was that your car wouldn’t start due to an Airlock in the system.

The DIY method to fix this would be to prefill the filter pot with a supply of fuel, and then starting the car. Using a vacuum bleeder or cycling the fuel pump with the ignition key a few times. Cycling the key used to prime the pump which pushed fuel through. The reason people did this is because it gives your car enough fuel to start. This then normally gives the car time to pull through fuel from the fuel tank, and returning fuel back into the tank (essentially giving the car time to bleed out the air). If you didn’t do this, it used to be a pain in the arse and sometimes the car wouldn’t start and you’d have to troubleshoot it

Modern cars are still the same, although because Technologies have improved over time. If you own a VAG based car, you can utilise the Software features of VCDS to do this task for you in order to prevent the car from stalling and starting first time. This procedure cycles the Electronics to the fuel pump which pushes fuel through the system. This then refills the chamber for the fuel filter and sends it back to the tank.

You can also use this procedure if you have replaced the Fuel Injectors or Flushed the Fuel from the system (perhaps if wrong fuel used). By doing this, it just makes the process easier. No messing around with pre-filling, or using a vaccum bleeder. Just press a button, wait and start the car

If you have never done this before, it’s a really simple procedure when using VCDS. I’ve listed it below

PROCEDURE TO PRIME THE FUEL PUMP

  • Connect the VCDS Diagnostic Cable to the car
  • Open up the VCDS Software
  • Click on Group 01 – ENGINE
  • Click on Menu 04 – Basic Settings
  • Click on the Drop Down Options – Choos the option FUEL PUMP SUPPLY ACTIVATION
  • Click ON/OFF
  • Wait about 30 secs, you will hear the fuel pump priming, and a glow plug light will flash on this dash
  • Once this is finished click DONE – GO BACK (If you’ve replaced injectors, or flush fuel, do this 2/3 times)
  • You should now be able to start the car.
  • You can then exit the software

I’ve also created a Youtube video for this process. Please feel to free to share it if it helped you out

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VW Golf Oil Warning Light

Oil pressure is important to any car. Volkswagen family vehicles have an Oil Warning Light which warns you about Oil Pressure problems. Normally due to low engine Oil. There are two Oil warning lights on the VW Golf Oil and most other car systems. Generally speaking, the warning lights are:

  • Yellow (low oil level, it’s at the absolute minimum) – Fill urgently, ideally stop. This normally appears when the fluid is at the minimum amount (I believe this is around 1 Litre)
  • Red (low oil pressure, this is dangerous) – Stop immediately, your engine will seize. If you get this light come on when driving, or immediately after hitting something like a pot hole. Pull over as fast as you can and switch off the engine. It’s important to switch off the engine too, Oil Circulates when the engine is running. You need to make sure it’s not circulating

I neglected to check my oil since the last change, because my cars have never used a drop of them. It always pays to do maintenance and regularly check your car fluids. When was the last time you changed your Oil or topped it up?

If your car comes up with any kind of Oil Warning Light, whether that is a orange oil warning light, or a red oil stop light, or a pressure warning light. Try and pull over immediately, Oil is the life blood for your engine. You need to investigate it asap

Today whilst driving to work I received the VW Golf Oil Warning Light (Yellow one), needless to say my arse was looser than someone who’d just been buggered by an elephant. I was crapping myself. If the light was flashing, it would mean sensor. Given that I don’t check my oil often, I was confident it was the level anyway

For information, here’s a quote directly from the above source:

Engine oil warning light Volkswagen

Engine oil warning light Volkswagen

Red warning lights mean you should stop the car as soon as it’s safe.
Yellow warning lights mean that action is required.
Green warning lights are for information only.

I knew I’d get to work and I’d just top it up at work, there are two warning lights on the VW Golf Oil and most other car systems. Generally speaking, the warning lights are:

  • Yellow (low oil level, it’s at the absolute minimum) – Fill urgently, ideally stop
  • Red (low oil pressure, this is dangerous) – Stop immediately, your engine will seize

Both situations are dangerous, I drove about 10 miles with the yellow light on, OK, I shouldn’t have, but I need to get to work, and knew I still had some oil in the car and driving that many miles wouldn’t cause it to fail.

I did however do some remedial actions, my car has never used oil. I do however drive my car really hard at times. I’ve always used the FULL rev range on my car so it gets the good old Italian tune up regularly to keep it healthy. The downside is it burns oil faster. That and I think I have a leaking intercooler which won’t help

Anyway, generally, the harder you drive your car, the faster the oil gets burnt. Basically hotter engine, faster spinning engine means more lubrication. So I took the safer option, I drove to work in 6th gear @ 50mph. Revs were around 1500rpm, which was really low, so didn’t put the engine under load much

Once I arrived at work, I went to top up Oil…… open boot, ermmm, hang on, didn’t I put the oil in the Garage at home one day?…. Oh, shit

I did check my oil when I got to work, and the dipstick wasn’t even reading at minimum…. by the way. Volkswagens dipsticks are REALLY badly designed on the VW Golf MK5. You get this crappy BLACK plastic with two balls on (for minimum and maximum). Yeah, it’s good in theory. You can read the oil level at any temp, however you have two problems here

  1. Oil is BLACK, dipstick is BLACK….. go figure
  2. Those little balls, yeah they stick out. Which means they SCRAP the oil tube coming up. So screws up your reading

If you are reading this VW, go back to the OLD style dipsticks. A metal based ones with little dotted ends, they’re SOOO much easier to read (I’m even thinking of modding my old Passat one). Even making the balls smaller would help

Anyway, long story short. I got my car home safely. Although I was expecting to receive the low oil warning light when coming home I didn’t… I didn’t want to chance it though. So repeated my driving conditions to keep the pressures low and reduce the chance of my engine committing a suicidial Harikari – if you’re reading this my little VW, I wubs you. Don’t break on me :O(

So, I filled up my car with about 3 litres of Mobil1 5w/30 ESP when I got home since it’s my preferred choice of Oil. Will do me until I buy some new drums, and chucked an old Castol Edge 5w/30 oil in the boot. I don’t like it, but it meets VW 505.00 standard (although the MK5 Golf is 505.01, or even 505.02 – I can’t remember) and end of the day, some oil is better than no oil. A car will still drive with shitty oil, it’s just not the optimum design for the engine

So as a future note, it always pays attention to those 2 mins. Avoid getting the VW Golf Oil Warning Light like I did, and save yourself some money in the long run from a potential rebuild

** AFFILIATE LINKS ** 

If you’d like to help support my website, please consider using these affiliate links. I get a small payment in return for your purchase. Please note the parts highlighted in RED/BOLD below, are specific to the BKD Engine in the Golf MK5. So you will need to verify which ones you need for your car

If you find any errors with the above links, please notify me. I’d appreciate it. If you’d like to read up more on the Oil Specifications for Volkswagen family engines, you can check it out on the following link

Views – 13111

Seized piston on brake caliper

After having my brakes inspected at the garage due to heavy vibrations when I was accelerating / braking. I suspected a warped brake disc or wheel balancing issue

 

My brother informed me that the piston was seized on my drivers side brake caliper at the front and it would need replacing. This was causing excessive heat when driving and was the cause of the over heating brake pads and vibrations that I felt.

 

I purchased some replacement brake pads and discs for my car from KNS and a new caliper for a total of £135.39 after giving them my cars registration, talk about a nightmare day

 

Me and my brother went through early morning to replace the discs and pads, the discs were 100% the right fitment because the part number on them matched a previous set I had bought.

 

We were unable to check the caliper was right until fitment, but visually inspecting it turned out to be correct. One comment I mentioned was I hope they gave me the right brake pads…. oh low behold me and my bad luck. They weren’t the right pads, they were for my model of car, but not my model of vehicle.

 

The pads for my car used different types of lugs to hold them in place on the caliper, they’re ones which point down, where the pads I was given were more slot in. I think the pads were for the 110HP model and mine is the 140 as they’re also smaller than the ones I currently use

 

Basically I had to do a trip to a local car parts store, which luckily is open 7 days per week. Get there early morning with my existing calipers and compared them against the ones I purchased and they were an exact match…. this is exactly the reason why I’m very awkward about VW, if you get the wrong gear your fubar’d

 

Anyway, in returning back, Steven had already changed the caliper, luckily and the new pads were correct (albeit, didn’t have ABS wear sensor, but a dummy wire was fitted so it didn’t trip the warning alarm).

 

At a later date I’ll order some parts from a site I’ve used before “Brake parts superstore”. I’ll be rebuilding my existing caliper as a spare for a Youtube Video and Article for the website and posting further detail in the brake article

Views – 1369

Oil change VW Golf MK5

After carrying out my last oil change on my VW Golf MK5 when I switched from flexible servicing to fixed servicing, I was prompted again to carry out another service on the Golf, it’s long overdue to be honest, but decided best to get it out the way incase of any winter weather coming in.

 

The VW Golf wasn’t treat to some low quality oil, I gave it some Mobil1 5w/30 ESP, low ash formula really good for the engine and a decent make. Volkswagen are very stringent when it comes to using specific oils for their car. Quite frankly I wouldn’t use any other cruddy oil anyway for the Golf. I prefer some decent stuff, I’d love Silkolene, but can’t justify the price when carrying out an Oil Change on the Golf.

 

I documented this procedure in a written up guide in the automotive section of my website. The downloadable link is available. I also uploaded a youtube video showing you how to reset the service indicator warning using VAGCOM

Views – 2430