{"id":7600,"date":"2026-08-09T20:52:17","date_gmt":"2026-08-09T19:52:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/?p=7600"},"modified":"2026-08-23T20:13:36","modified_gmt":"2026-08-23T19:13:36","slug":"repairing-my-garden-brushcutter-that-doesnt-obliterate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/repairing-my-garden-brushcutter-that-doesnt-obliterate\/","title":{"rendered":"Repairing my garden brushcutter that doesn&#8217;t obliterate"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong><em>Disclaimer<\/em><\/strong><em>: This page contains affiliate links. Predominantly as an an eBay Partner Affiliate, Google Adsense and Amazon Affililate and as a member of other affiliate networks. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking a link, I earn from qualifying purchases and may receive a commission at no additional cost to you.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Backstory about this Brush Cutter post<\/h2>\n<p>The reason I&#8217;m writing this post is to help document what I did for others, it may help fix a tool they own, or fix a tool they bought. Which is always the game when money saving. I realise that when it comes to tools a lot of people may not have these, but there are alternatives like hacksaw and metal files, they could just take longer. The purpose of this is to help spur creativity in others or desire to repair their Brushcutter. My mothers garden is like a rainforest currently and her electric strimmer that she purchased does the job. It would take forever because the batteries only last about 30 mins, and because it uses plastic strimmer wire it takes ages to cut through thick undergrowth.<\/p>\n<p>When I moved house I brought my old brush cutter, it was damaged and beaten over the years, but when it worked it was an absolute beast. It&#8217;s a 4-in-1 brush cutter device (attachments like hedgetrimmer, chainsaw, etc) that runs from a small engine (52cc I believe). The best part is that the blade on this, is a solid steel blade that absolutely demolishes thick under growth. When I had it working, it would simply cut through an entire garden in around 30 mins no matter how thick the under growth. The main problem was that it had a few issues over the years when I collided with unobjects like bricks. First it was a broken shaft, then a blade, then the tank leaked all from different issues. However parts are cheap to purchase and replace so I kept it going. Just flung in storage, decided enough was enough<\/p>\n<h2>Problem #1 &#8211; Ratting noise internally shaft won&#8217;t spin on Brush Cutter<\/h2>\n<p>The first problem on the brush cutter, which I knew about (or rather didn&#8217;t know). Is that the brush cutter would always intermittently spin the shaft on the blade when the engine was running, and when pulling out the self-retracting starter cord of the Brush Cutter there was always a metal rattling noise as if something was spinning.<\/p>\n<p>So I set about dismantling the Brush Cutter (I actually dismantled the entire thing bit by bit, as I wasn&#8217;t sure what was wrong). However for short notes, the quickest method (at least on my model to get to the engine is the following).<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Disconnect the output shaft from the clutch\/gearbox (by removing the end screws on the shaft)<\/li>\n<li>Disconnect the output shaft (you need to lock off the piston first)\n<ul>\n<li>Remove the spark plug<\/li>\n<li>Plug the engine up (cordage for example)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>To disconnect the output clutch I inserted a 4mm allen key into the end and turned the internal screw to release it<\/li>\n<li>Disconnect the shaft clutch (this is just on a screw thread on mine, so turning it anti clockwise)<\/li>\n<li>This then disconnects the housing from the motor. Then unscrew the covers and release it<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Now, since the housing was now released. It was onwards with the troubleshooting. I&#8217;m writing this post in hindsight of the above content hwoever so it&#8217;s a bit arse backwards I didn&#8217;t know the problem at the time.\u00a0 I was able to identify the cause of the problem for the metal. The output shaft was free spinning on the engine, because the keyway shaft was broken.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/no-keyway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/no-keyway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/broken-keyway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/broken-keyway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/keyway-shaft\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/keyway-shaft-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<h2>What is a keyway?<\/h2>\n<p>A keyway is basically a slotted fitment to enable parts to interlock together the correct way onto the parts. Basically think of a house lock you can only insert your house key one way into the handle. You can&#8217;t insert it upside down for example. Same purpose, the keyway positions the output shaft against the housing, which is used to spin the output shaft that spins the clutch. The internal tool on the housing on mine was broken, which meant even if the motor runs. It was constantly free spinning and not doing anything<\/p>\n<h2>How did I repair the keyway on the output shaft from the engine?<\/h2>\n<p>This part had me head scratching the most. The keyway on the rotary part was broken completely. The output shaft was fine, but the part that connects onto it wasn&#8217;t. There was also the small problem of how to connect it, I initially tried using copper wire, didn&#8217;t work. Tried heating up metal that didn&#8217;t work either. I have a welder, and could weld it (if I was good at welding, but wanted a simpler approach first).<\/p>\n<p>I took it in the house to have a think. Eventually I thought &#8220;why not just cut a new keyway&#8221;, and lock it in place with a screw or something?After all, they&#8217;re strong, and I only needed something to position the shaft for the output and a screw is very strong, especially when biting into metal and metal on metal with a strong enough screw would be a fit tight enough stronger than a standard keyway made of aluminium<\/p>\n<p>So now I had a plan, after digging out my trusty Milwaukee <a href=\"https:\/\/amzlink.to\/az09OjP1rr0kE\" rel=\"nofollow sponsored \">M12BLROT-O Rotary<\/a> tool and some carbide burrs, I proceeded to grind away at the metal of the output shaft (slightly for a deeper gap), and the metal housing of the retractor enough to make a groove all the way through to the end<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/milwaukee-rotary-tool\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/milwaukee-rotary-tool-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/grinding-keyway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/grinding-keyway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/keyway-made\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/keyway-made-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Once I was happy I had sufficient enough depth into the metal I proceeded to add a screw a metal screw into the housing after aligning the original taper point on the output shaft, and the original keyway location so it was a perfect fit. Now this output shaft is something that can spin up to 10,000 RPM. So I don&#8217;t want it to come loose and screw up whilst I&#8217;m working on it. So I proceeded to tighten the screw until it was biting into the metal hard, and kept tightening to the point where I couldn&#8217;t physically turn it anymore so that it was locked in place. The result of this is below<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/keyway-view\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/keyway-view-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/screw-inserted-keyhway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/screw-inserted-keyhway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/tightening-keyway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/tightening-keyway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Now, do I leave it like this? No, the output shaft and engine are balanced (to a point). So introducing something like a screw that was sticking out I feel would introduce a hell of a wobble. I didn&#8217;t fancy risking it, so I got out the trusty Milwaukee again and proceeded to grind down the remaining parts of the screw until it was flush with the face. PLUS, there&#8217;s also a washer that goes over this face that it spins on, so the surface has to be flat anyway. As you can see, it&#8217;s not perfect but I don&#8217;t care for perfect, I wanted it functional.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/end-result\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/end-result-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/ground-down-keyway\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/ground-down-keyway-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>After successfully repairing the output shaft, and giving the engine pull cord a few yanks, the shaft started to spin. However, onto the next problem with the Brush Cutter (<strong>this the current problem I&#8217;m working on FYI<\/strong>)<\/p>\n<h2>Problem #2 &#8211; The engine do noteth starteth<\/h2>\n<p>Now, this could have been a few things. However, the brush cutter was still apart, so I went digging a bit more. When I was dismantling the engine and trying to work out how to remove the output shaft before I realised my stupidity (hence the output steps above). I kept trying to remove and reinstall the piston. I got &#8220;impatient&#8221; so to speak and ended up whacking it in a few times as it was stiff. Turns out the reason it was stiff, was because I snapped the piston rings.<\/p>\n<p>So I went about ordering some new piston rings for the engine (and it so happens there&#8217;s also a way to fit them). Otherwise they don&#8217;t compress which is the problem I was having. For info :<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Top piston ring, the taper gap in the grooves (widest part faces upwards)<\/li>\n<li>Bottom piston ring, the tape gap in the grooves (widest part faces downwards)<\/li>\n<li>Also you need to align the gaps, with a little notch, otherwise it won&#8217;t compress properly<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Now, because of my little abuse. I had to order some new piston rings. I measured the piston and came to about 35mm with a steel ruler. I wanted my digital calipers, and when measuring it I came to 36.53mm. I figured it needed some tolerance and a 0.5mm gap was enough so ordered a pair of 36mm x 1.5mm piston rings on Amazon and fit these back onto the engine and reassembled<\/p>\n<h2>Did it start?<\/h2>\n<p>Nope! Now I&#8217;ve done a few things however, as this is the first time I&#8217;ve attempted to start the engine in 4 years, there&#8217;s probably a few problems it could be<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Incorrect fuel oil\/mixture<\/li>\n<li>Poor \/ No spark<\/li>\n<li>Bad compression<\/li>\n<li>Poor starting procedure<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I went through getting rid of each problem one by one to see if I could solve it, I&#8217;m currently still working on it, so I&#8217;ll update this post when I solve it. This is what I&#8217;ve tried so far<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Fuel \/ Oil mixture wrong for 2-stroke brush cutter<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>I&#8217;m unsure on this bit, I believe it&#8217;s either 1:50, or 1:40 for mixing ratio (I did 1:50) I have a <a href=\"https:\/\/amzlink.to\/az09OjP1rr0kE\" rel=\"nofollow sponsored \">proper mixing bottle<\/a> that makes it easier to see the ratio you&#8217;re mixing up (side note : Jeez petrol is expensive now, cost me a \u00a310 for a 5 gallon emergency can). I mixed up the fuel ratio and used it for the engine (I have a feeling it&#8217;s 1:40 but trying 1:50 for now). I filled the tank, and primed the bulb a few times, still got the usual pooooooooo, pooooooooooo, poooooooooooo sound as if it&#8217;s not exploding in the cylinder when trying to start<\/p>\n<h3>Poor \/ No spark on brush cutter<\/h3>\n<p>The next step I tried was sparks. I measured the coil. I converted this to a proper HT lead <a href=\"https:\/\/amzlink.to\/az0JtIoVWtiyT\" rel=\"nofollow sponsored \">using a kit a while ago that I purchased online<\/a>. As standard the ignition lead using a spring that literally pierced the High Voltage wire from the ignition coil and attached it to the spark plug. OK, it worked, but it came off easily, and was always iffy. Basically I snipped the end of the wire, and then joined it internally to the connector. This then plugs onto the end of the spark plug via the HT lead, and carries the appropriate voltage correctly.<\/p>\n<p>Whilst the motor still didn&#8217;t start, I tested the output with a multimeter by grounding to the chassis of the motor, and the positive probe inside the terminal. When pulling the cord I saw voltages, so figured the coil\/ignition pack where fine. I also decided to rule out the spark plug, so I connected the plug to the lead, and ground the probe to the metal of the engine. When pulling the cord I saw blue sparks, so figure the plug is good too (I may end up replacing it just to cover my arse)<\/p>\n<h3>Poor starting procedure on brush cutter<\/h3>\n<p>OK this could have been me, however the engine should have at least fired over. Generally the procedure is to prime the bulb, pull on the throttle whilst having full choke. Generally you pull until it fires over, however mine was never firing over. It was just giving that limp fart as if it&#8217;s trying to start but never does. Hard to describe the sound, by if you will know the sound if you&#8217;ve tried starting something with no compression<\/p>\n<p>Now, this leads onto my current last thought process<\/p>\n<h3>Poor compression on brush cutter engine<\/h3>\n<p>THIS, I personally think is the problem. When I ordered the piston rings, I figured there needed to be a gap for the piston when fitted inside the housing to allow the engine to start when pulling the cord. However I&#8217;m now thinking the piston rings are too small, as my digital calipers said 36.53mm I figured they were off by 0.53mm because they&#8217;re cheap ones. However I think they were only off by o.03mm which sounds more like it and that I ordered piston rings which were 0.5mm too small<\/p>\n<p>Now, another reason why I think this, is because I don&#8217;t believe the engine has enough compression to start the combustion process. The one thing I DO remember when I used to start the brush cutter, is that the engine always felt really tight when pulling on the starter cord itself. This will be the compression part of the cycle. Apparently piston rings are only meant to have 0.0005 to 0.001 INCH of clearance, between the bore and the piston rings. When converting this to UK units, thats about 0.02 &#8211; 0.0012mm in thickness about two hundredths of a millimetre.<\/p>\n<p>Yeah so I&#8217;ve given about 0.02 inches of clearance, which is a huge variation for the piston housing. So that&#8217;s my next step<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve repurchased some new piston rings (36.5mm x 1.5mm) and I&#8217;ll go from there when reiftting where I&#8217;m hoping to have a more positive result. I do think the piston rings are too thick and meant to be 1.2mm but I can grind them down if needed :o)<\/p>\n<p><strong>UPDATE : 16\/08\/26<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>As a note I tested the engine compression today and it&#8217;s around 40psi (no more than 50psi) after doing a few pulls. Online info suggests normally between 60-110psi is good, so looks like it&#8217;s low. I&#8217;ll see what the result is when I get the new piston rings. Although if they&#8217;re good I&#8217;ll know after pulling as the brush cutter will try starting<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/engine-compression\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/engine-compression-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<h2>Fuel tank heat cover to protect from engine temperature<\/h2>\n<p>Did this today whilst doing the compression test as more of a tidy up. The original fuel tank for the brush cutter had a heat reflective aluminium tape on it. Assuming to protect the plastic from melting on the fuel tank and minimise the risk of it exploding<\/p>\n<p>The old tape came off a while ago, so I purchased some reflective aluminium tape on eBay and applied it to the tank to prevent as much heat soak from the engine as possible. I went overboard, but it&#8217;s probably the only time I will be using this stuff, so I&#8217;d rather give a good amount of protection<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/tape-tank2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/tape-tank2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/tape-tank1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/tape-tank1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/screws-engine-cover\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/screws-engine-cover-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><strong>UPDATE : 18\/06\/26<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Feel like we&#8217;re getting somewhere now. I received my new piston rings &#8220;Chinesium&#8221; in terms of quality, they were 36.5mm x 1.5mm in size I think. They didn&#8217;t last long, when attempting to fit one over the cylinder, one snapped. So I was down to 1 piston ring. In terms of fitment however the first one went in excellent, it&#8217;s just it wasn&#8217;t strong enough to last. The previous set I bought were physically strong and felt they could stand up to more abuse. Anyway with a snapped piston ring I fit the new 36.5mm ring at the top, and the old 36mm ring at the base of the piston. At least in an effort to test the compression of the engine. I made sure the grooves faced upwards, the two stroke engine doesn&#8217;t seem to have an oil cleaning ring, it just has two compression rings I think. The groove dot is at the top so I pointed the grooves upwards.<\/p>\n<p>Anyway after fitting the piston in the setup above, I decided to test the compression again. Low and behold it went to a better value, the first pull on the engine was already around 50psi, and when doing more and more strokes the pressure kept rising. When I was doing it on the previous setup, the pressure stayed constant. So we have better compression.<\/p>\n<p>There was still in the gap for the piston rings, so the final rings I&#8217;ll be fitting will be 37mm x 1.2mm which is normally used by Stihl chainsaws. I think this will be the correct measurement, so I&#8217;ll fit these when they arrive and post a comression test \/ engine update. Hoping to have the engine running this weekend so I can use the brush cutter. As I feel once the compression is a good number the engine should start. Once the engine starts it&#8217;s game time.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-7' class='gallery galleryid-7600 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/rings-36-5mm\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/rings-36.5mm-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/psi-gauge2\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/psi-gauge2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/psi-gauge1\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.andrewhope.co.uk\/Blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/psi-gauge1-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><strong>UPDATE:\u00a0 23\/08\/26<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The replacement rings were too big, and also too thin. I got out my calipers again, and measured the ring space. The ring depth is approx 1.5mm thick, the cylinder bore was 36.51mm, the piston was around 36.41mm. When reading the engines you&#8217;re not meant to have piston rings that are really wide because you need to leave room for expansion. When I attempted to fit one of the new rings, the old one snapped which didn&#8217;t help. So I was trying to fit two rings 37mm each, however when looking at the notch, the ends of the rings were going over each other so I realised they were too big. They were also extremely difficult to fit. In the end I ordered another set of 36mm x 1.5mm piston rings from Amazon. I&#8217;m still unsure whether they need to be 36mm or 36.5mm however, my gut thinks the 36mm were correct. That, and I get next day delivery from Amazon, the cheap 36.5mm has to come from China and I couldn&#8217;t be arsed wait another week<\/p>\n<p>So ordered the new piston rings 22\/08, and received them today. I fitted them to the engine quite easily, they fit into the grooves perfectly, I made sure they were coated in oil to simplify fitting, and get them aligned with the grooves. I then lined up the piston arrow head with the exhause port on the cylinder and inserted it. Went in really easily compared to the others.<\/p>\n<p>I tested the compression, AND were still good. First crank around 55-60 psi. I reached 100 psi in 4 pulls of the recoil, so I reckon compression on this engine is good enough for starting. I went through reassembling a basic setup of the engine so I could test it out. Went to do a few pulls after priming it, engine got stiff and saw a bit of smoke as if something ignited then the recoil went shit again&#8230;&#8230; (bugger)<\/p>\n<p>Annoyingly when I lost the recoil (as if the shaft \/ clutch was free spinning again) I lost compression on the engine too. Soon as I tightened it all back up it worked fine.<\/p>\n<h2>Recoil is the new problem with the engine<\/h2>\n<p>Now that I&#8217;m confident I don&#8217;t have compression issues with the engine. I went through a troubleshooting process to identify what the hell is going on with the recoil part. Now this, I actually think is something simple. As noted when I first started this post, I&#8217;ve worked on this brush cutter before so was aware on most parts however I couldn&#8217;t remember all the nuts and bolts what it had in the first place<\/p>\n<p>When I dismantled the output shaft from the engine housing, and the clutch engagement from the shaft, I noticed the clutch was loose. The clutch assembly that goes to the engine output shaft goes on via a thread.<\/p>\n<p>I reassembled it making it tight again and when testing, got compression, it worked, gave a few good firm pulls and then free spinning again. So this got me thinking.<\/p>\n<p>I wonder if the clutch is meant to have a nut that holds it in place. Logically this makes sense, theres space on the threaded area for a nut to hold it. When you spin over the engine the clutch locks against the outer plate, however I&#8217;m thinking that when it locks against the plate, if there&#8217;s resistance, the clutch is going to be counter spun against the shaft, which I think is unscrewing this.<\/p>\n<p>When doing some quick diagram searches online, it does appear that the clutch is meant to be held on with a nut. So THIS I think is an easy fix, enough that I&#8217;ll be trying a new nut when I get in from work tomorrow, so hopefully should have a better update on this post<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>If that doesn&#8217;t start, then the last remaining problem could be the fuel mixture (I also need to order a new plug\/washer for my tank) as fuel keeps dripping out, but that&#8217;s easy enough. I feel once I attach a nut to the output clutch it SHOULD start, as it never fired up previously so I&#8217;m feeling more optimistic about this repair and will probably update this post tomorrow after testing<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Disclaimer: This page contains affiliate links. 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