OK, this was sort of self caused however it also highlighted the age of the wiring in the household and the fittings that I live in. Basically got changed, and I punched the lightbulb, managed to break it apart with me unable to repair the ceiling rose light fitting, I decided I would simply install a new one. Easy…yeah?
I thought I’d document this to help others should they come across the same problems. I live in a semi-detached house, where the wiring in the household hasn’t been modernised. So all of the old wiring is using the colours from the 1970s (Black, Red and Yellow/Green or Green). This makes it difficult, and even more difficult when wiring and carrying out basic Electrical work in the house when it’s not your natural knowledge.
Here’s the replacement of my ceiling rose light fitting.
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As a note, I recommend using a qualified Electrician to carry out this repair in your household. I take no responsbility for any errors in this guide, or damage caused. I do this at my own liability. Recommending that you seek out professional fitting at all times.
What you will need to replace your Bayonet light fitting
- Screwdrivers, I purchased a set of Stanley Fatmax VDE Screwdrivers from Toolstation, also available on eBay and Amazon
- A light fitting, I purchased the Axiom 9″ Ceiling Rose from Toolstation, also available on eBay and Amazon
- A mobile phone, camera or pen + notepad with coloured tape (this will help you remember wires)
How I went replacing my Pendant light fitting
First step, gathering the tools and items that you need to carry out the repair. One VDE screwdriver set for Electrical work, and a Ceiling Rose pendant to replace the old damaged one.
Safety first! If you’re going to do this yourself, don’t risk your life. AC voltage can kill you. I’ve had 250v AC through me, and it bloody hurt. It’s a hard sensation to describe, but basically my entire nervous system felt red hot like it was burning and I couldn’t move for a few seconds of the shock. Needsless to say, I learned the hard way via a life lesson. I’m lucky to be alive, now I’d rather not risk it. Off with the Electric. That 30 mins of inconvenience is better than losing your life to stupidity.
Ok time to repair this, first unscrew the lampshade connector from the base of the housing (the bottom half twists off to release the lampshade) – turning counter clockwise to remove it. After this, turn the cover counterclock wise to loosen it too.
Inspecting the old housing, as you can see it was badly damaged over the years, and needed replacing. Bare live wires exposed on the Bayonet connector that attaches to the back of the light bulb housing. The screw in connector that holds the housing for the lightbulb is also broken, hence why it kept dropping out, as there was nothing for it to attach to
Undo the two screws holding the connector to the ceiling, then undo the scotch blog wires holding each wire together on the Bayonet pendant. Prior to doing this, I HIGHLY recommend you seperate the wires, mark them up. Tape them to identify them later. Spend your time working out which is which to save you the headache later
After disconnected, fling the old one to the floor. Out with the old, get rid of the rubbish. Be amazed at the amount of dust and soot that collects when you dispose of it. Feel a sense of accomplishment that you’ve achieved something. Or panic when the realisation sets in and there’s no going back now. Still, we’re all about winners on this site aren’t we?
After removing the old connector, I seperated the wires as needed. I worked on a process of deduction for finding out the switched live wire, and also looking at the diagram to confirm my findings on the wires and colours. The 3 wire sets I had as follows
- FAR LEFT : Neutral (2 black wires twisted together)
- MIDDLE : Switched live (1 black wire by itself – scotch block other end was hooked up to brown of the light)
- FAR RIGHT : Live (3 red wires twisted together)
I then set about installing 1 set of wires at a time methodically into each section until finished. Just to save time here, this is the way the diagram on the above picture tells you to wire it. Or at least the way I wired it.
- Single “switched live” wire – goes to the connector next to the “live” brown wire
- Two “neutral” wires – goes to the connector next to the “neutral” blue wire
- Three “live” wires – goes to the central connector
Just doing a test to make sure I wired everything up correctly. I was paranoid something was going to go bang, so once I was happy I connected the bulb and then switched on the power and pressed the switch for the lights. Et voila! I have lights now, no fuses blew and everything seemed OK. We’re good to go.
New pendant cover secured after testing
We’re finished. One light fitting with light cover installed. The Bayonet fitting used is a standard Ceililng Pendant Bayonet fitting. The size is a B22 (you may also see B22d, this is compatible), it’s something to do with the safety jacket. Double sleeved or something, but physically it’s the same size so don’t worry about buying a B22 only fitment or vice versa. These are hard to find by name, sometimes they’re called Ceiling Rose fitments. Anyway, this is the finished off light fitting (the light does work) with the cover installed
How long does this job take?
From start to finish it took me 25 mins after cutting off the power
Any problems afterwards?
Don’t think so, figured if there was going to be a problem it would be within the first few seconds of installing it, not several hours of using it. Either way, if there’s a problem. I’ll resolve. I simply wrote this blog post to try and help others if they’re stuck in a similar situation.
