It’s time to replace the rear suspension in my Audi A3
On the last MOT that I had, the garage I go to the mechanic highlighted that the bushes were failing on my Audi, they were only advisories currently, but he said they wouldn’t pass the next MOT. The Mechanic is a garage I like, it makes it easier for them as the MOT’s because a quick hit for them to carry out on my car. They know I also do the work. Rather than just replacement of the part that they mentioned, I said I’d do the lot of it.
Please note that for context of this article, I will be posting affiliate links to support my website. As it takes me a considerable amount of time to take photos, write articles when I could just be working, and it helps support me. Also as a note, this article written is specifically related to my car (2007 Audi 8PA Sportback – with a BKD Engine) – (5 door 2.0 TDI 103kw). It is a NON-QUATTRO version, so part numbers mentioned are specific to my vehicle. This article is meant to act as a point of reference to help others trying to work on their car nothing more.
I have wrote this post whilst it’s fresh in my memory to try and help anyone else stuck in the same position, or needs guidance
Notes to consider before replacing my A3 suspension
- Think ahead – Gather time and materials to work out what parts you need to order, and what you need for the job
- Axle stands – you’re going to be under the car a LONG time
- Bolts – they’re usually stretch bolts anyway, buy genuine. Don’t skimp on these (I learned the hard lesson later on)
- Anti roll bar – this has to come off to get access to the tie rod bolts, even if you chop them off, you have to fit the new bolt. You’re old stuff is probably rubbish like mine, so consider buying a kit to save you the hassle
- Subframe – Can be dropped to make access easier, although bolts ideally need replacement
- Exhaust – Doesn’t need dropping (although it helps), you can order new mounts, but the bolts can seize on the mount
- Jacking – If parts don’t fit, use the jack to lift the wheel hub. It makes it easier to fit the bolts by relieving tension
- Take Photos – If you have a crap memory where everything is or where everything goes, take photos
- Leave in Bolts – Leave all bolts removed in their original places (even if you have new ones), only remove them when you’re about to refit something. Also keep the old bolts, they become good emergency bolts
Why is there such a problem with the seized bolts?
The main problem, other than the 17 years worth of road salt, grease and dust. Is Galvanic corrosion, there is because there are different metals mixed together (the bolt/car part), which results in the materials breaking down and eventually fuse together.
The only way I could loosen them up was using an Impact Gun and covering them with RP90 rust penetrant in an effort to free up the bolt. RP90 is one of the better rust release methods, you can get it from places like Toolsation, or eBay for around £6.99. The best penetrant, is called BDX, however that also costs about £17 per can. So I didn’t fancy paying that!
Tools I used to remove and replace rear suspension on my Audi
- Milwaukee Impact Gun (Can do without to save money but get a breaker bar!)
- Blow Torch (Optional – but highly recommended)
- Fire Extinguisher (Optional – but depends how much you trust yourself) 😉
- Reciprocating Saw w/ Milwaukee Destruction Blade (Optional – but highly recommended)
- T20 Torx
- T27 Torx
- 16mm – 21mm Sockets
- 14mm – 21mm Spanners (and 10mm Spanner if doing handbrake)
- Breaker Bar
- Ratchets (both 1/2″ and 3/8″ sizes)
- 1/2″ Extension Bars
- Screwdriver/Pry Bar
- Hammer
- Chisel/Punch
- Torque Wrench
- RP90 Rust Penetant Spray
These are the tools I used to remove my rear suspension, most of the sizes of the nuts are duplicates of each other, so you will need another socket the same size, or a spanner to lock off the opposite side.
The first 3 tools are more speciality ones. I actually already owned an Impact Gun (a Kielder 700nM) one, however being honest I think this is garbage for what it was, and would struggle to break the bolts loose. Which is why I specifically purchased a stronger one. I do enough repairs on my car that I believe it warrants a better impact gun, the one I purchased is almost 3 times as much nut removal torque, and it had no problems removing any of the nuts
This is entirely preferential though, if you can’t afford the money, or can’t justify spending it. Then don’t buy it (or at least hire one if poss) to make it easier, or use a breaker bar.
The 2nd tool was something I’d been wanting to buy, again I had a blow torch already from Rothenberger, but the Quickfire/Superfire or what most people in the trade used. When combined with MAPP gas, the heat output is crazy. If you do this though, get the Rothenberger MAPP gas, the other stuff seems to be iffy by comparison vs price. Again this is preference, there’s generally two variants. They both do the same thing however the more expensive model (Superfire) supports brazing. I opted for the higher model as I plan on doing radio projects which I’ll probably be soldering copper pipe together. so decided to future proof and pay £30 extra. Again, this is one tool I don’t think you should cheap out and buy if you can afford it. If you repair your own cars, you know how many times seized nuts and bolts come up
With regards to the last tool. The reciprocating saw, and Milwaukee Sawzall Blade, were actually something I already owned. They came in useful for removing the bolts for the transverse link, and tie rod. They wouldn’t come loose, because the bush had worn away and it was just spinning in the housing. In the end I used this to saw the bolt in half, and simply removed from the material to get it out. I did the same for the drop link. The parts that were left over, I simply locked onto them with a pair of vice grips, and turned the other end with a socket after heating them.
The remainder of the tools were all in my Halfords 300 pcs toolkit bar the things like hammer and screwdrivers
Part numbers I used to replace suspension for my Audi A3
Main suspension components that I replaced were below, this is a list that may help you as required. As you may not need to replace all the parts I did (or want to)
| COMPONENT | OEM PART NUMBER | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|
| Lower Wishbone | 1K0505311AB | Same part number either side |
| Tie Rod | 1K0501530C | Drivers side |
| Tie Rod | 1K0501529F | Passenger side |
| Upper Wishbone | 1K0505323N | Same part number either side |
| Axle Guide | 1K0505224K | Drivers side |
| Axle Guide | 1K0505223K | Passenger side |
| Coupling Rod (Drop Link) | 1K0505465AA | Same part either side |
| Springs | 1K0511115HE | Same part either side |
Additional parts I ordered to replace my Audi A3 suspension
Please note this breaks down the individual part numbers most of them I purchased as kits on eBay
| PART | PART NUMBER | QTY | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|---|
| Exhaust Mount | 1K0253144AH | 1 | Bolts are tight |
| Exhaust Mount | 8D0253147E | 1 | |
| Anti Roll Bar Bush | 1K0511327AR | 2 | Another is 1K0511327AP |
| Anti Roll Bar Clamps | 1K0511439E | 2 | |
| Suspension Strut Mount | 1K0513353R | 2 | |
| Lower Spring Cup | 1K0512297D | 2 | |
| Upper Spring Cup | 1K0512149B | 2 | Cap transferred from old |
| Suspension Strut Pipe | 1K0513425D | 2 | 1K0513425 for oval pipe |
| Suspension Bump Stop | 1K0511353S | 2 | 1K0511353J for oval pipe |
| Suspension Thrust Ring | 1K0513167 | 2 |
Part numbers for the nuts and bolts on the car
Please note, I’m assuming that you would be doing both sides of the vehicle because it’s an Axle part. If you’re only doing one side, you only need half the number of bolts. Items marked with * you only require this number of the item, because it’s a singular item to the vehicle
This is all the different nuts and bolts involved in the car that you “may” need, and their associated part numbers. I’m collating this information to speed up the search for people who need it
| PART NUMBER | USED ON | QTY | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|---|
| N10285402 | Axle Guide | 2 | Handbrake clamp screw |
| 1K0609734C | Axle Guide | 2 | Handbrake clamp |
| N10170804 | Axle Guide | 2 | Axle guide to bracket |
| N90648402 | Axle Guide | 4 | Housing to car body |
| WHT003468 | Axle Guide | 4 | Guide to wheel bearing |
| N10211202 | Subframe | 4 *** | Subframe bolts |
| N90471802 | Exhaust Silencer | 2 *** | Rubber/Metal Screws |
| WHT000228 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt |
| WHT000232 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric washer |
| N10106402 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt nut |
| N10628601 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Bolt |
| N10106402 | Lower Wishbone | 2 | Nut |
| WHT000227 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt |
| WHT000232 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric washer |
| N10106402 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Eccentric bolt nut |
| N91047502 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Bolt |
| Not Applicable | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Shim |
| 1K0505193 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | X-Shaped Washer |
| N10401801 | Upper Wishbone | 2 | Nut |
| N90648402 | Suspension Strut Mount | 4 | Mount to body |
| WHT003467 | Suspension Strut Lower | 2 | Strut to wheel housing |
| N10304102 | Suspension Strut Retainer | 2 | Locking Screw for strut |
| Not applicable | Suspension Strut Lower | 2 | Shim for screw |
| N10644701 | Anti Roll Bar Screws | 4 | Anti roll bar clamp screw |
| N10211202 | Tie Rod | 2 | Rear Bolt |
| N10106402 | Tie Rod | 2 | Rear nut |
| N91047502 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front Bolt |
| 1K0505193 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front Washer (X-shape) |
| N10401801 | Tie Rod | 2 | Front nut |
| 191611715 | Brake Pipe | 2 | Retaining clip |
| 1H0611797C | Brake Pipe | Not sure (I zip tied) | 1 point bracket |
| 1H0611797 | Brake Pipe | Not sure (I zip tied) | 2 point bracket |
| 8K0611797D | Brake Pipe | Not sure (I zip tied) | 2 point clip |
| 1J0611853 | Brake Pipe | Not sure (I zip tied) | Spacer sleeve |
How difficult was it to replace my Audi A3 rear suspension?
In reality, it’s not difficult, just more time consuming more than anything else. It takes me longer when I do these jobs anyway because I take photos for my website. I also encountered poor weather and problems which I document in this article. Actual timescale wise it took me around 24 hours over 5 days. That was me taking photos, constantly jacking up and down, replacing parts, removing problematic parts, waiting for parts on order. If you’re handy with a spanner, and have the parts to hand, have the right tools, and don’t want to take photos like I’ve done. This could easily be done in a weekend. I’m currently on holiday, as I need my car for work, so whilst I wasn’t time limited. I still have a target to fix my car by, as it’s my only method of transport. This is why I prefer to replace most parts, because they’ve lasted long enough, and it makes my car more reliable in the long run.
Basic “quick-guide” how to replace the rear suspension on my Audi A3
This isn’t a how to article as such, more of a quick pointer article. I came across a lot of problems due to the age, mileage and condition of my rear suspension in my Audi, so want to a post a brief step by step just for people to follow. You can then read through the content I put on here, and pictures to get a general idea of what’s involved in this process of rear suspension replacement.
If you’re also replacing the springs, you will need to determine the colour code of your springs
- Loosen wheel nuts
- Jack up the car and put on Axle stands
- Remove the wheels
- Loosen all parts that require replacing, and remove their bolts
- Fit new parts
- Jack up the car so that the suspension is compressed
- Tighten the bolts to torque or ugga dugga spec
Removing arch liner around the suspension
I decided to remove the arch liner on my car to get better access to everything. You don’t really need to do this step, but I was wanting as much visibility as possible. It’s just a case of removing all the T20 torx screws you see holding the arch, there’s about 10 in total in various places (sills, arches, roof of arch, body of car)
Handbrake cables removal
Shouldn’t really need to do this, but I dropped the subframe on my car, and was initially planning on removing the entire assembly so wanted to disconnect them. Pictures below if needed.
It’s just a case of the following steps
- Loosen the handbrake from the car
- Disconnect the T27 torx clips from the axle guide
- Disconnect the handbrake cable from the clips
- Disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper
- Removing interior trim
- Readjusting the handbrake (I actually needed to do this anyway as I knew mine was off)
Removing the anti-roll bar
In order to access the tie-rod bolt on the subframe. Unfortunately you have to remove the anti roll bar. It is fixed in two places, but I never really got photos due to problems. The factory anti-roll bar is held in by an M10 Multispline fit on the subframe, and two nuts on the droplinks. It should just be a case of loosen these screws, and lock off the drop link, then loosen the nuts holding these on but I encountered problems which I had to sort for my suspension to be replaced in my Audi which involved me repairing broken bolt nuts, and cutting off the drop links
Installing new bushes on the anti-roll bar for my suspension
I ordered new clamps and bushes for my anti-roll bar. The factory bolts I had problems removing because they’re worn and rounded off because they were so tight, and like the remainder of the car. The bushes were worn down due to being 17 years old on the Audi Suspension.
Like the rest of the parts I ordered a Febi bush kit from eBay. I was going to order the parts seperately, but the seller I like to purchase my parts from an eBay had the full kit (2 bushes, 2 clamps and 4 screws) for a very competitive price. So I purchased immediately
Now, the bushes for the Antiroll bar are for around 20mm in size, jeez, these things are tight like you wouldn’t believe. My first thought was these are never going to fit. As always, there is LUBE! Ahem, grease.
Some people say you shouldn’t really use grease, but I did, so I am. It makes them easier to fit, and they’re going to eventually dry out anywhere. I decided to use Red Rubber grease, as I had some lying around, and it protects rubber
Basically to fit the bushes. I cleaned up the anti roll bar (again factory one), where the old bushes were fitted just with a wire brush/wire wheel. I then added some red rubber grease around the roll bar (just a finger tip blob will do). This was just enough to allow me to rotate it when fitted back to the car. I then added some grease to the inside of the clamp, but also a finger tip amount to the outside of the bush and inside of the bush
After this, I simply positioned the bush around the anti-roll bar. Put the clamp around the bush, then squeezed them all together with my big-jaw Irwin Vise Grip groovelock pliers (I don’t have the model number at hand – will add later). I purchased it from Machine Mart about 10 years ago or more, but they’re about 14″ long, and have about a 10″ jaw capacity ( I believe there’s now a similar model they’re sold as called Irwin GV10 if it helps)
Squeezing it all together was a bit fiddly at times, the grease didn’t help. It did however also make it way easier to fit the bushes at the same time. Once the bushes were inside (they weren’t fully seated, but inside the housings) I used zip ties through the screw holes to secure them and hold them in place overnight so they didn’t spring out.
I wasn’t bothered about them being fully seated, as when they’re tightened up inside the car, it compresses the remainder of the bush into the clamp anyway. That way I only had to worry about cutting the zip tie after fitting it, which was easier (zip ties ended up breaking overnight), but the rubber had settled and didn’t spring out of the clamp. So win win
Removing the clamp for the wheel speed sensor
Bit easy to explain this with pictures, wedge a screwdriver in the cap, and twist it backward to release the clamp from the old housing. To be honest, the clamp is a waste of time, I was going to transfer it to mine, but it doesn’t actually fit. there’s a little hole where the old one is on the new upper wishbone, so I just zip tied it there (without fully tying the zip tie so it had a bit of flex). This is just going in my spare parts box, never know when you need one.
Installing the tie rods
This is more of a pointer more than anything else, when installing the tie rods, the wider section goes at the subframe side of the car. The smaller portion goes onto the wheel bearing housing. Also make sure the open section faces towards the rear of the vehicle. Otherwise it will collide with the Axle guide and prevent you from fitting it
Repairing the anti roll bar screw studs
Due to the metals being bonded together, one of the problems I encountered when removing the anti roll bar screws was the metal studs behind the clamps breaking apart and rounding off when attempting to remove them. In the end I removed them by heating up the nut behind with a blow torch to expand the threads, then used a 14mm spanner (open end) to hold the nut in place. Whilst I used a pair of locking vice grips on the rounded off screw side to twist it off (on the outer edge of the head).
I wasn’t bothered about the screws, clamps or bushings. At this moment in time because I’d already decided I was going to remove the anti roll bar parts and refit new ones. So I just worked on getting them all off as fast as possible
As mentioned above, the studs that the screws go into on my subframe broken off when I was removing my anti roll bar to replace my rear suspension. There’s are fixed on with welds I’m assuming, so had to work out a method to fix it. This solution isn’t meant to be a perfect repair, but it’s a suitable and reliable enough “bodge” for it to work satisfactorily
Basically, I used a large washer (M8 size), and an M8 nut, then tightened it up using a 13mm ratchet spanner. I finally torqued it to spec once everything was fitted as noted. The screw itself is held in place now, in may be something to monitor, or could be fixed with loctite if there’s a risk of vibration removing it. However at this stage I’m not worried. I’ll probably go back to it in a few months so to see how it’s doing and add loctite if needed.
Refitting the suspension strut
When I was removing, and reassembling the suspension on the car, I removed the bolt in the wheel bearing assembly. I can’t remember size believe it’s either a 19mm or 21mm. I also had to remove the two 16mm screws holding the bracket to the body.
In terms of rebuilding the suspension I had a kit which I used with new bump stop, cover, bracket, and supporting adapter. I ended up using the old bracket to mount to the car, as my original one was Oval shaped, and the new one was round. It looked like they would still fit, but the adapter and new bump stop wouldn’t, so I ended up retaining these. I kept the others as spares
When rebuilding the suspension, it’s just a case of swapping all the parts over and refitting to the car. Unfortunately I don’t have access to a proper tool kit for suspension (I’m still learning and buying tools for my car). So this is the next thing to purchase. When doing suspension, you have to lock off one part of the strut whilst turning the nut on a socket. As I didn’t have these, I had to resort to using vice grips with rubber wrapped around the grips to minimise any damage to the strut on the car and then tightened them up.
The reason why aren’t meant to use vice grips, is that it can score the metal on the strut, and each time it retracts it can damage the seals, and eventually leak the hydraulic fluid causing the strut to fail on the car. I figure this will be a job that may eventually need doing, but I’ll most likely have a couple of years out of the struts before I replace them again. By then I’ll also have the problem tools. I inspected for damage, when using the rubber around the vice grips, and couldn’t see any real marks, so hoping I got lucky. Buying the right tools is the best way though
I also didn’t have the right tool for tightening the suspension bolt in the wheel bearing, so just got a spanner and whacked it with a hammer until it was tight. You do with what you have when you’re like me, it won’t come loose in a hurry anyway. I think the proper tool is probably something that looks like a torque wrench with a crows foot spanner on the end. As I don’t see how you can torque it up with spring in the way. Just a thought if you’re doing this anyway
Readjusting the handbrake
No pictures here, but these are the steps below. I’ve also wrote about this previously in other articles of my website relating to replacing the handbrake cables.
To summarise the steps:
- Remove interior handbrake cover
- Refit the handbrake cables to caliper
- Refit the clips to the handbrake cable (on cable, and axle guide)
- Turn the compensator clockwise (holding the lines balanced) until the cable stop is approx 1mm off the brake
- Apply the handbrake (I would do it without pressing button it) just listen for the ratchet to click 3 times
- Your handbrake will then be applied, and should automatically adjust from this point
Replacing the suspension springs on the rear of the Audi
Now this is something I already knew about, and replacing rear springs on the Audi A3 is probably one of the easiest jobs you can do.
I’m actually glad I did this job, because BOTH of my suspension springs were broken, which I didn’t know about. Again 17 years worth of crap on the car damages things.
First I had to match up the colour code, you can “usually” see this looking under the car, and looking at the springs you have to pay special attention, as you may miscount the numbers so look carefully. I took a photo with my camera. You can find option codes on your car on the sticker in the boot, which normally tells you the options fitted to your car. But not the colour on the springs themselves. The colours on the spring suspension, denote the different damping/weight limits on the car, so fitting the wrong ones can result in poor performance, and also unable to support the vehicle. This could result in premature failure.
These are the option codes for my own suspension
UA0 = Rear shock absorption G37 = Front shock absorption
These are the option codes for my own suspension, although it doesn’t really correspond to much when you look into it. It at least gives you an idea. You can go to websites for reading the suspension info on your car (I use 7zap for my Audi) when going to the rear suspension section. I found the section which corresponded to paint marks. I’m not colour blind, but have a hard time telling the difference between what is considered as violet/lilac and purple for a paint dot on my car.
The PR code mentioned : PR:UA0+0YF+ 1SA,1SB for the model against this colour. In reality there’s probably not that much difference, but I went on eBay with the part numbers and did a search. In the end I purchased two OEM springs against part number 1K0511115HE after checking with the eBay seller.
When it came to refitting the suspension, I fitted a new top support cup, and a new bottom cup which sits inside the lower wishbone. With regards to the lower wishbone cup. I kept the colour dots at the bottom, and you rotate the flat part of the spring, flush against the flat part inside the cup. Then it’s just a case of jacking up the car whilst holding the spring, and then once it’s refitted, putting a bolt through the lower wishbone into the wheel bearing housing. You will probably need to pull and wiggle the housing a bit, then whack the bolt in. It’s under tension, so they never normally go straight in. It’s easier fitting the bolt one side, then look from the other side and adjust as necessary
Torque the bolts up, or be team ugga dugga?
I opted for tightening the bolts to torque on the car. There’s an Audi PDF file that you can find online called the Audi A3 Quick reference book, it specifies all the torque values needed for the car. Which is useful rather than hunting down the information. I printed off the pages relevant to my car (think it was around page 86 from memory), so that I had all the information at a glance.
The car is meant to be torqued up whilst the Axle is loaded up with the weight of the vehicle on the car and the suspension is resting on the wheels. I still needed access when torqued up, so the best method that I could come up with was fitting the parts, tightening then. Then hacking up the car so that the weight of the vehicle was on the suspension (I placed the jack under the spring cup just FYI), once the car was up. I measured the distance from the centre of the wheel bearing to the top of the wheel arch liner. Once I was at 400mm I did my adjustments
Basically all it does is straighten up the suspension. When you look at the suspension unloaded, it’s all twisted, once it’s jacked up it straightens out. Not sure if it helps but may help out some.
I came across 3 problems when it came to tightening the bolts
- Upper transverse link, I couldn’t get in with my torque wrench, so need adapters, or a smaller torque wrench
- Axle Guide, you’re meant to tighten the bracket once under load. NO IDEA on this, it’s physically inside the car when fitted
- Suspension strut, I couldn’t get access to tighten it. Probably done with a speciality socket at VW or some crows foot adapter on a torque wrench at a guess. So I just did my own method.
There’s only so much you can do as a home mechanic anyway, so just tighten the best you can (1 grunt is enough)
How bad was my old suspension?
They say pictures speak a thousand words, so I’ve decided to include some pictures of the suspension that I removed from my Audi A3 after I finished carrying out the repairs. Unknown to me, I’m glad overall that I decided to do this. Both coil springs had snapped on my car without me knowing at the base. So eventually this would be a failure at a later date. The only rear suspension components I didn’t fully replace on my Audi A3 were the subframe and anti-roll bar. The remainder of the parts have been replaced.
Miscellaneous pictures from the A3
Realignment of suspension
After carrying out the replacement, I had to take the car to get the suspension realigned on the car. I knew the car would need this anyway, because everything had been replaced which would be adjusted, and I didn’t have the equipment to do the alignment. This was also noticeable when driving, as when going around bends at slow speed the back end of the car felt like it was stepping out and skidding on ice.
Now, I took my car to Kwik Fit and they couldn’t do the alignment on the ramp, because unfortunately the only part I decided to go cheap on was replacement bolts for the suspension. Woe is me, the pins on the washers were broken, and were a poor quality metal, which resulted in them being unable to realign the suspension until I’d corrected it
I recommend not skimping out and buying OEM bolts, it’s not worth the hassle.
Luckily, Pulman VW had all the bolts and nuts and washers that I required in stock. For a grand total of £63.84 I walked away with 4 OEM eccentric bolts, 4 OEM eccentric washers, and 4 OEM nuts.
Four hours later the replacement parts were fitted back onto my suspension and I managed to get my alignment done on the rear of my Audi, the fronts are still a bit iffy. Technician was advising it’s mostly the subframe for the camber, I’ll also need to fit new track rod ends if I want to adjust the fronts (easier), but I’m way happier now. Those minute changes don’t seem like much, but they really change the handling of the car again.
Affiliate Links – Where I purchased products
OK, this entire section is affiliate links. You’re under no obligation to use these links, I merely appreciate you using them and hope it helps you. With regards to car parts, my preference is using eBay over Amazon, I’ve always found problems getting the right parts on Amazon when it comes to eBay.
So I’ll link to some stores there, but I alway recommend eBay, my preferred supplier is called CAR PARTS IN MOTION. I’ve ordered a lot of stuff, and never had an issue
When it comes to OEM Bolts, I either order from VAGBOLTS, or DEUTSCH PARTS. I’ve used both stores previously when buying parts for my car, or for my Turbocharger. It’s best if you have the part numbers, so use the parts catalogue noted above, or query with the store owners.
Now affiliate links follow for stuff, you can order. When it comes to the main car parts, or nuts and bolts, it’s probably easier using the store links above and searching for the products, as there’s so many, however I’ve added some below to speed things up
TOOL AFFILIATE LINKS
The links are for both Amazon and eBay, depending on your preference
I actually have a large toolkit that I purchased from Halfords (they keep rebranding it between 200pc and 300pc) and I’ve used it for almost every job on my car. I don’t really have a toolkit preference I just look for something that does the job. German cars usea lot of triple square/spline/etorx sockets, so you need them in toolkits. Most toolkits don’t have triple square in them (normally M8/M10), so I look for those too (M14-M18 is only used on bigger things like driveshafts), and for those I buy dedicated sockets
Here are some links for toolkits, no preferential order. Just ones I found that should do the job for main tools
- Halfords kit I have, that you can buy on eBay (currently around £350)
- Sealey toolkit, probably the best “premium” alternative to Halfords (currently around £190) on amazon or eBay
- BGS DIY toolkit, about £120 on amazon currently
- Pollor toolkit, probably the best low budget find which I think should do the job, both around £70 on amazon or eBay
- Autojack Toolkit, currently around £99 on Amazon
Again, I have no preference to the above toolkits, I can only comment on what I use. I’m happy to try difference priced ones. I used to have a “VonHaus” brand, however they don’t seem to stock car toolkits with Multispline, so can’t recommend them. Their stuff is usually quite well built from what I can see. If you make (or know of any kits that you think are useful, link me up) (my name @ my domain.co.uk)
UPDATE : I managed to find a VONHAUS kit with a Multispline
For the rest of the tools, here are ones which you can order which may help you working on the rear suspension of your Audi A3
- Milwaukee Impact Gun (amazon / ebay)
- Reciprocating Saw (amazon / ebay)
- Milwaukee Destruction Blades (amazon / ebay)
- Vice Grips (amazon / ebay)
- Irwin GV10 Vice Grips (amazon / ebay)
- Blow Torch
- Axle stands (opted for branded ones) (amazon / ebay)
- Trolley Jack (opted for branded one) (amazon / ebay)
- Rust Penetrant RP90 (amazon / ebay) or BDX on ebay
- Fire Extinguisher 2KG (amazon / ebay)
- Torque Wrench (amazon / ebay)
- Crows Feet Spanners (amazon / ebay)
- Suspension Sockets (amazon / ebay)
- Red Rubber Grease (amazon / ebay)
CAR PART AFFILIATE LINKS
Again, these are affiliate links, it’s probably easier visiting the stores with the part numbers and search what you want rather than links below but I’ll link them again to save looking quickly
Parts you can look at to buy, when it comes to the Amazon links, I’d personally recommend verifying them, or buying them from eBay stores above.
As noted, I’ve not had good luck with car parts on Amazon, so I always tend to search by part numbers, rather than fitting guides. I only prefer being branded products as there’s a lot of preference bias towards listings that aren’t OEM
Plus Amazon tends to be a lot pricier for car parts compared to eBay for some reason
Hopefully the below list helps you with your query. These are all affiliate links, I aim to be completely transparent when it comes to my guides and information on my website as I don’t like spamming people, but still need to support my site. I actually get paid more money from Amazon as an affiliate, than eBay since the’ve decreased their earnings or payouts, but would recommend eBay purchases because they’re more accurate than Amazon.
Either way, if you use either it helps to support my site,so I appreciate any purchases made using the links below
- Exhaust Clamp (Screw on version) (amazon / ebay)
- Exhaust Clamp (Hanger version (amazon / ebay)
- Coil Spring (amazon / ebay)
- Anti Roll bar bush kit (better on ebay as full kit)
- Shock absorbers (ebay only I’m afraid)
- Axle Guide Left (amazon / ebay)
- Axle Guide Right (amazon / ebay)
- Subframe Bolts (these are the ones I bought on eBay)
- Lower Wishbone (amazon / ebay)
- Cup Spring Support upper (amazon / ebay)
- Cup Spring Support lower (amazon / ebay)
- Drop Links (amazon / ebay)
- Upper wishbone (amazon / ebay)
- Track control arm left (amazon / ebay)
- Track control arm right (amazon / ebay)
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